[V8] Still frustrated, have to rant.

[Dave Saad]

Dave's laws of trouble shooting:
Go slow.
Start at the beginning.
Assume nothing.
Move methodically to the end.

If the pedal goes to the floor, you have a massive mechanical problem  
with the linkage or you have air in the lines. Start with the  
mechanical. When you have verified that the brake pedal does in fact  
move the piston in the master cylinder for its full travel, then move  
on to the bleeding step.
If you do those two steps, (and of course assuming that the entire  
hydraulic system is intact and not leaking) it will be impossible to  
not have brakes.

For the warning light, refer to the trouble shooting steps above.
The light is turned on by a sensor. In this case, there are several,  
one of which is the fluid level in the reservoir. This seems most  
likely to be the problem since you were just in there messing with  
stuff.  The next most likely would be the pentosin reservoir level  
switch - because you were just in there messing with stuff.
There is most likely a pressure differential switch for the front/back  
brake circuits also.  If you did not correctly repair the hydraulic  
issues then this light will come on - that means it is working and you  
have a hydraulic problem. Go back to step one.

If you start at the beginning and move methodically to the end, it  
will be impossible for the light to remain on.


On Mar 13, 2010, at 9:52 AM, Seamus O'Carey wrote:

> I finally got the replacement servo in the car and the brakes still  
> don't
> work.  In fact it's even worse now.  I no longer get the initial  
> grab if I
> stab hard on the brake.  Instead it just goes right to the floor and I
> barely have any brakes at all.  At least before I could still drive  
> the car
> if needed.
>
> Also, not only does the "BRAKE" light stay on, but also the actual  
> brake
> lights on the tail of the vehicle stay on.  I'm pretty sure the  
> reason the
> taillights stay on is that even though I measured it carefully, I  
> must have
> gotten the adjustment for the clevis incorrect so the pedal isn't  
> coming
> back up far enough to hit the switch to turn off the lights.  The  
> problem is
> that I'm not sure how to re-measure it without completely removing  
> the servo
> again.  The clevis can be adjusted without removing the servo, but I  
> can't
> measure the correct distance (230mm or 9") from the base of the  
> servo to the
> hole in the clevis, because the firewall is now in the way.  Should  
> I just
> adjust it far enough that it engages the switch?  The service manual  
> made it
> look like it has to be pretty exact.
>
> As far as the "BRAKE" light, will it stay on if there is air in the  
> lines?
> I know I lost some fluid when I removed the lines so I'm sure I have  
> to
> bleed the system, but it's worse than it I expected.
>
> What's worse is that, in addition to everything else, I'm now pretty  
> sure
> the rear calipers are not disengaging entirely so I also have THAT  
> to deal
> with.
>
> Anyway, as always I'm open to any input, suggestions, derision, etc.
>
> Seamus
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