[V8] Just when things were looking good.....

[NIck Miller]

haha, tom good to hear that came in handy!

Its an easy job to do, and also easy to muck up!  I'd make sure to mark the
components as they come out and to do it all at once.  The rear bearing is a
serious pain to get out, but I managed to poke a chisel or punch at a funny
angle through the slots in the back of it and tap it out with a hammer.

you'll need some 3jaw puller or a bit of creativity to get the bearings off,
and then it slaps back together easy enough.

I'd also almost recommend the diode mod to get it to put out about 15v
instead of about 14 even.  There is a discussion on this somewhere else.

Also, were you the fella in San Fran?  The guy with the Cabby offered it to
me for free, so I'm going to pick it up.

On Sat, Jan 29, 2011 at 9:08 AM, Dave Saad <dsaad at icehouse.net> wrote:

> I did mine a long time ago - so don't remember any specifics, but generally
> speaking all alternators are pretty much the same.
> The hard part is usually getting the front pulley off.  If you can do that,
> then just pay attention when you disassemble (mark the case halves for
> example) and you will be fine.
> Once the rotor is out, take some very fine steel wool or something and
> smooth out the slip rings. Remember to clean out all bits of steel wool when
> done.
> If you have a multi-meter, you can look for shorts/opens in the windings
> and check the diodes but the best thing to do is bring the rebuilt unit to a
> good shop and let them bench test it.  A typical auto parts store will not
> have a very good tester - you need to find a shop that rebuilds them.  I
> always get this test done for free - maybe I am just lucky, but most shops
> will do this for you.  Tests include full load, ripple, and voltage.
> The only other "gotcha" is the brushes.  On this alternator, there is no
> problem, but on most others I have seen, you need to retain the brushes with
> some sort of pin (a tooth pick usually works) while you assemble the halves
> together.
>
> Let me also remind you all that your very expensive and no longer available
> electric fan motor (for the radiator) is also easily rebuildable.  If the
> front bearing seizes up like mine did, it will burn up the motor quickly -
> and by burn up I mean the motor guts melt beyond repair. The bearing cost
> about $5, and the brushes would need to be fabricated but that is easy and
> costs less than $1 per brush x 4.
>
> Both of these repairs are cheap and easy and I recommend doing them as
> preventive maintenance rather than waiting for failure.
> I rebuild alternators at about 100K miles, and the fan, due to parts
> un-availability should be done maybe at 50K intervals.  The last price I got
> for the fan was ~$700, but none in stock and not possible to order, and that
> was a good six years ago.
>
> Dave
>
>
> On Jan 28, 2011, at 6:03 PM, toml99 at todomundo.com wrote:
>
> > Well, I got those sensors in and the 5-speed definatly was happy
> > about that...Noticed that it was a bit slow to turn over the last few
> > days, and since the battery is no more than 2 years old, I went to
> > check charging.  The battery tested at 15.9V!, and when I started
> > it...it went up to 18 something....Yow.....  Sooooo, I dug thru my
> > "Box of Nick"...that I bought a year or so ago with just about every
> > suspension part in it looking for...(drum roll)....The new Bosch
> > Voltage regulator/2 bearings to rebuild the alternator that was also
> > in that box o'plenty(saved the day, Nick).  Anyway, wondering if
> > anyone's ever rebuilt their alternator....I've found a good writeup,
> > but there's no mention of how difficult those bearing's are to
> > remove....Just wondering if anyone's done it.  Glad I wasn't on a
> > roadtrip and ended up with "catastrophic electrical meltdown
> > syndrome" somewhere in Wyoming during a winter storm watch......Tom
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