[V8] Timing belt change - Fuel pump?

John Bysinger doog at bysinger.net
Wed Oct 3 13:38:35 PDT 2012 

Follow up after trying a few more things...

So I sourced a Siemens Hall sensor from a guy on audifans boards, rebuilt
the passenger dizzy with the new sensor, with no real change to behavior.
 Replaced the drivers side knock sensor (since I had previously only
repaired the sheathing on the wire), again no change.  Capt Ron suggested a
possible cat problem, but doing the knock test nothing sounds like it's
floating around in there.  So I'm starting to wonder if the cut-out
behavior is fuel delivery related.  So that's going to be my next line of
investigation.

So on to the questions, fuel pump and fuel filter, where are they located?
 I assume the pump is in-tank, and the filter is the lovely round thing
next to the MAF on the fuel rail.  If there's a fuel delivery problem are
there specific codes related to that?  I'm going to track down a fuel
pressure gauge and see if I can validate this theory, any other tips/tricks?

As always, thanks in advance! :)

-John
'90V8Q

On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 5:16 PM, John Bysinger <doog at bysinger.net> wrote:

> Well the wires check out for continuity, and don't seem to be shorting
> anywhere.  I'm going to re-wrap it and run it inside some wire loom that
> I've got.  But, disconnected or connected the engine behavior doesn't
> change.  I think my  problem lies elsewhere.
>
>
> On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 4:01 PM, Allan Vega <allanvega at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> That's the knock sensor that Scott mentioned in his last email to you.
>>
>> FYI , that sensor has a torque spec of 11-18ft lbs, certainly not enough
>> to crack the housing
>> Allan
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Sep 15, 2012, at 6:44 PM, John Bysinger <doog at bysinger.net> wrote:
>>
>> > What sensor is underneath the drivers side header?  orange plug under
>> the
>> > engine cover on the right side of the intake, routed by the front and
>> > timing belt cover and near the power steering pump?  The cable to that
>> one,
>> > rubber wire coating is completely disintegrated and the plastic casing
>> > around the sensor is crumbing.
>> >
>> > -John
>> >
>> > On Fri, Sep 14, 2012 at 9:23 PM, Scott Justusson <qshipq at aol.com>
>> wrote:
>> >
>> >> The problem with rpm codes, is they can be triggered *from* the
>> >> intermittent stalling, not the cause of it.  Some have been known to
>> put
>> >> some cold water on those sensors to see if anything changes.  This
>> sounds
>> >> like a MAF symptom to me, are you sure that connector is secure?
>>  Another
>> >> issue I've seen with the older v8's is an intermittent grounded knock
>> >> sensor causing a full max retard of the timing tables.  That DS one
>> goes
>> >> into a bracket on the side of the valve cover, and I've seen many that
>> were
>> >> grounded against the headers. Also, take a look at night, arcing wires
>> and
>> >> cracked distributor caps many times can send you down much more
>> complicated
>> >> paths than necessary.
>> >>
>> >> HTH
>> >>
>> >> Scott J
>> >> 91 v8 Auto 3.6
>> >> 92 v8 Auto 4.2 ABT Chipped
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> -----Original Message-----
>> >> From: John Bysinger <doog at bysinger.net>
>> >> To: V8 <v8 at audifans.com>
>> >> Sent: Fri, Sep 14, 2012 10:46 pm
>> >> Subject: Re: [V8] Timing belt change - follow up
>> >>
>> >> Ok, after some help from fellow listers, I was able to rebuild the
>> >> passenger side distributor.  I completely re-wired the connector to the
>> >> hall sensor, and was able to bench test it with a DC 4.5V source.  I
>> >> thought I may have assembled the ring on the cam side incorrectly, but
>> >> again, thanks to you guys I was able to confirm I got that ring in
>> properly.
>> >>
>> >> But it's still throwing a 2111 and stumbling over ~2500 RPMs in
>> neutral,
>> >> and completely gutless and stalling when in gear.  Just to confirm, I
>> did
>> >> as SJM's ECU page said and reset the memory by pulling the appropriate
>> >> fuse, and trying again, same code.  I pulled the drivers side cover on
>> the
>> >> timing belt to see if there was any odd movement going on w/ the
>> >> tensioner/dampener when it got to those RPMs.  No odd movement there
>> >> either.  According to the SJM site 2111 indicates an RPM sensor
>> failure,
>> >> but I just replaced both of the sensors under the driver's dizzy
>> earlier
>> >> this year, barely 500 miles ago.  I rechecked their harness plugs, both
>> >> were secure.  I also inspected the connectors, wiring and hoses that
>> run on
>> >> top of the engine, no real visible issues that I can tell visually.
>> >>
>> >> I'm really at a loss as to where to look next.  I have time this
>> weekend to
>> >> tinker with it, I'm hoping I can get it figured out before the Seattle
>> fall
>> >> rain gets here.
>> >>
>> >> Any tips/suggestions at this point would be very helpful.  I do have
>> 'an
>> >> audi guy' who has a shop 15 miles from here I could take it to, but
>> right
>> >> now driving it isn't possible with the stumbling, I'm trying to avoid
>> the
>> >> cost of getting it there if I can.  I blew my Audi budget on the timing
>> >> belt and PS hoses.
>> >>
>> >> -John
>> >> '90 V8Q
>> >>
>> >> On Thu, Aug 16, 2012 at 8:42 PM, John Bysinger <doog at bysinger.net>
>> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> Well I got the timing belt completed, thanks for the recommendation
>> to use
>> >>> BlauParts, their kit and tool rental made it nearly a breeze.  The
>> kit was
>> >>> amazingly complete with seals, pulleys, fluids etc.  I also replaced
>> the
>> >>> fan and oil pump bearings, because like everyone else said, I was in
>> there,
>> >>> might as well.
>> >>>
>> >>> I used this for reference while I was doing the work, proved very
>> helpful:
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/enginemechanical/A8timingbeltreplacement.pdf
>> >>>
>> >>> It was nearly the same, just different Dizzy setup on the back of the
>> >>> heads.
>> >>>
>> >>> I also got my leaky power steering fixed while in there, thanks again
>> >>> spokanehose, that was the third hose I've had them done, worked great.
>> >>>
>> >>> But there's always something....
>> >>>
>> >>> I ended up having to trim about 1.5" off the end of the drivers side
>> of
>> >>> the top radiator hose, hose clamp pinched through it causing a leak.
>>  Glad
>> >>> it was there and not elsewhere in the hose so I didn't have to
>> replace it.
>> >>> But the one remaining issue I'm having is keeping me from getting it
>> back
>> >>> on the road. It's only throwing one code: 2111.  Which based on a
>> search of
>> >>> the list archives is likely the crank position sensor.  Strange.  I
>> just
>> >>> replaced it and it's partner about 3 months before the water pump
>> gave out,
>> >>> so I'm pretty sure the sensor is still fine.  Behavior is it starts
>> and
>> >>> idles just fine, slowly increase the RPMs and around 3k it starts to
>> act
>> >>> like it's skipping or stumbling.  When trying to drive, similar
>> behavior,
>> >>> idles along just fine, try to give it some throttle and it'll stumble
>> and
>> >>> sometimes stall.
>> >>>
>> >>> I tried peaking under the dizzy to see if maybe the plugs had come
>> loose
>> >>> while I was putting the cam lock plates on/off but they look plugged
>> in ok.
>> >>> I haven't tried re-seating them just yet since there's quite a bit of
>> >>> engine bits in the way there and I was losing sunlight.  Thought I
>> would
>> >>> see if anyone had any suggestions for something to check besides
>> those two
>> >>> sensors hidden behind the drivers side header.
>> >>>
>> >>> Only other noteworthy item is on the passenger dizzy there's a sensor
>> that
>> >>> the plug socket had crumbled a bit, I cleaned it up and made a clamp
>> of
>> >>> sorts to hold it in place, could that be my issue?
>> >>>
>> >>> -John
>> >>> john at bysinger.net
>> >>> '90 V8Q
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> -- john at bysinger.net
>> >>
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>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > john at bysinger.net
>> > _______________________________________________
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>> >
>>
>
>
>
> --
> john at bysinger.net
>



-- 
john at bysinger.net

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