[V8] Timing belt change - Fuel pump?

chris brown sacheldog at hotmail.com
Wed Oct 3 17:17:43 PDT 2012 

Yes the filter is *under* the Big plastic cover. Remove two bolts the plastic drops down and exposes the filter. I changed mine about 2 months ago took about a half hour start to finish. Quite a noticeable improvement on *pep* and MPG. 

> From: dsaad at icehouse.net
> Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 17:46:47 -0600
> To: john at bysinger.net
> CC: v8 at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: [V8] Timing belt change - Fuel pump?
> 
> For sure get a fuel pressure tester. This is a vital tool. The pump is in the tank and the filter is back by the right read wheel under a plastic dirt cover. I think the round thing by the Maf is the fuel pressure regulator.
> If I were me (and I am) I would replace the fuel filter first.
> Do you have a service manual?
> 
> Dave
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Oct 3, 2012, at 2:38 PM, John Bysinger <doog at bysinger.net> wrote:
> 
> > Follow up after trying a few more things...
> > 
> > So I sourced a Siemens Hall sensor from a guy on audifans boards, rebuilt
> > the passenger dizzy with the new sensor, with no real change to behavior.
> > Replaced the drivers side knock sensor (since I had previously only
> > repaired the sheathing on the wire), again no change.  Capt Ron suggested a
> > possible cat problem, but doing the knock test nothing sounds like it's
> > floating around in there.  So I'm starting to wonder if the cut-out
> > behavior is fuel delivery related.  So that's going to be my next line of
> > investigation.
> > 
> > So on to the questions, fuel pump and fuel filter, where are they located?
> > I assume the pump is in-tank, and the filter is the lovely round thing
> > next to the MAF on the fuel rail.  If there's a fuel delivery problem are
> > there specific codes related to that?  I'm going to track down a fuel
> > pressure gauge and see if I can validate this theory, any other tips/tricks?
> > 
> > As always, thanks in advance! :)
> > 
> > -John
> > '90V8Q
> > 
> > On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 5:16 PM, John Bysinger <doog at bysinger.net> wrote:
> > 
> >> Well the wires check out for continuity, and don't seem to be shorting
> >> anywhere.  I'm going to re-wrap it and run it inside some wire loom that
> >> I've got.  But, disconnected or connected the engine behavior doesn't
> >> change.  I think my  problem lies elsewhere.
> >> 
> >> 
> >> On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 4:01 PM, Allan Vega <allanvega at comcast.net> wrote:
> >> 
> >>> That's the knock sensor that Scott mentioned in his last email to you.
> >>> 
> >>> FYI , that sensor has a torque spec of 11-18ft lbs, certainly not enough
> >>> to crack the housing
> >>> Allan
> >>> 
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>> 
> >>> On Sep 15, 2012, at 6:44 PM, John Bysinger <doog at bysinger.net> wrote:
> >>> 
> >>>> What sensor is underneath the drivers side header?  orange plug under
> >>> the
> >>>> engine cover on the right side of the intake, routed by the front and
> >>>> timing belt cover and near the power steering pump?  The cable to that
> >>> one,
> >>>> rubber wire coating is completely disintegrated and the plastic casing
> >>>> around the sensor is crumbing.
> >>>> 
> >>>> -John
> >>>> 
> >>>> On Fri, Sep 14, 2012 at 9:23 PM, Scott Justusson <qshipq at aol.com>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>> 
> >>>>> The problem with rpm codes, is they can be triggered *from* the
> >>>>> intermittent stalling, not the cause of it.  Some have been known to
> >>> put
> >>>>> some cold water on those sensors to see if anything changes.  This
> >>> sounds
> >>>>> like a MAF symptom to me, are you sure that connector is secure?
> >>> Another
> >>>>> issue I've seen with the older v8's is an intermittent grounded knock
> >>>>> sensor causing a full max retard of the timing tables.  That DS one
> >>> goes
> >>>>> into a bracket on the side of the valve cover, and I've seen many that
> >>> were
> >>>>> grounded against the headers. Also, take a look at night, arcing wires
> >>> and
> >>>>> cracked distributor caps many times can send you down much more
> >>> complicated
> >>>>> paths than necessary.
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> HTH
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> Scott J
> >>>>> 91 v8 Auto 3.6
> >>>>> 92 v8 Auto 4.2 ABT Chipped
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>>> From: John Bysinger <doog at bysinger.net>
> >>>>> To: V8 <v8 at audifans.com>
> >>>>> Sent: Fri, Sep 14, 2012 10:46 pm
> >>>>> Subject: Re: [V8] Timing belt change - follow up
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> Ok, after some help from fellow listers, I was able to rebuild the
> >>>>> passenger side distributor.  I completely re-wired the connector to the
> >>>>> hall sensor, and was able to bench test it with a DC 4.5V source.  I
> >>>>> thought I may have assembled the ring on the cam side incorrectly, but
> >>>>> again, thanks to you guys I was able to confirm I got that ring in
> >>> properly.
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> But it's still throwing a 2111 and stumbling over ~2500 RPMs in
> >>> neutral,
> >>>>> and completely gutless and stalling when in gear.  Just to confirm, I
> >>> did
> >>>>> as SJM's ECU page said and reset the memory by pulling the appropriate
> >>>>> fuse, and trying again, same code.  I pulled the drivers side cover on
> >>> the
> >>>>> timing belt to see if there was any odd movement going on w/ the
> >>>>> tensioner/dampener when it got to those RPMs.  No odd movement there
> >>>>> either.  According to the SJM site 2111 indicates an RPM sensor
> >>> failure,
> >>>>> but I just replaced both of the sensors under the driver's dizzy
> >>> earlier
> >>>>> this year, barely 500 miles ago.  I rechecked their harness plugs, both
> >>>>> were secure.  I also inspected the connectors, wiring and hoses that
> >>> run on
> >>>>> top of the engine, no real visible issues that I can tell visually.
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> I'm really at a loss as to where to look next.  I have time this
> >>> weekend to
> >>>>> tinker with it, I'm hoping I can get it figured out before the Seattle
> >>> fall
> >>>>> rain gets here.
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> Any tips/suggestions at this point would be very helpful.  I do have
> >>> 'an
> >>>>> audi guy' who has a shop 15 miles from here I could take it to, but
> >>> right
> >>>>> now driving it isn't possible with the stumbling, I'm trying to avoid
> >>> the
> >>>>> cost of getting it there if I can.  I blew my Audi budget on the timing
> >>>>> belt and PS hoses.
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> -John
> >>>>> '90 V8Q
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> On Thu, Aug 16, 2012 at 8:42 PM, John Bysinger <doog at bysinger.net>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>>> 
> >>>>>> Well I got the timing belt completed, thanks for the recommendation
> >>> to use
> >>>>>> BlauParts, their kit and tool rental made it nearly a breeze.  The
> >>> kit was
> >>>>>> amazingly complete with seals, pulleys, fluids etc.  I also replaced
> >>> the
> >>>>>> fan and oil pump bearings, because like everyone else said, I was in
> >>> there,
> >>>>>> might as well.
> >>>>>> 
> >>>>>> I used this for reference while I was doing the work, proved very
> >>> helpful:
> >>>>>> 
> >>>>>> 
> >>> http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/enginemechanical/A8timingbeltreplacement.pdf
> >>>>>> 
> >>>>>> It was nearly the same, just different Dizzy setup on the back of the
> >>>>>> heads.
> >>>>>> 
> >>>>>> I also got my leaky power steering fixed while in there, thanks again
> >>>>>> spokanehose, that was the third hose I've had them done, worked great.
> >>>>>> 
> >>>>>> But there's always something....
> >>>>>> 
> >>>>>> I ended up having to trim about 1.5" off the end of the drivers side
> >>> of
> >>>>>> the top radiator hose, hose clamp pinched through it causing a leak.
> >>> Glad
> >>>>>> it was there and not elsewhere in the hose so I didn't have to
> >>> replace it.
> >>>>>> But the one remaining issue I'm having is keeping me from getting it
> >>> back
> >>>>>> on the road. It's only throwing one code: 2111.  Which based on a
> >>> search of
> >>>>>> the list archives is likely the crank position sensor.  Strange.  I
> >>> just
> >>>>>> replaced it and it's partner about 3 months before the water pump
> >>> gave out,
> >>>>>> so I'm pretty sure the sensor is still fine.  Behavior is it starts
> >>> and
> >>>>>> idles just fine, slowly increase the RPMs and around 3k it starts to
> >>> act
> >>>>>> like it's skipping or stumbling.  When trying to drive, similar
> >>> behavior,
> >>>>>> idles along just fine, try to give it some throttle and it'll stumble
> >>> and
> >>>>>> sometimes stall.
> >>>>>> 
> >>>>>> I tried peaking under the dizzy to see if maybe the plugs had come
> >>> loose
> >>>>>> while I was putting the cam lock plates on/off but they look plugged
> >>> in ok.
> >>>>>> I haven't tried re-seating them just yet since there's quite a bit of
> >>>>>> engine bits in the way there and I was losing sunlight.  Thought I
> >>> would
> >>>>>> see if anyone had any suggestions for something to check besides
> >>> those two
> >>>>>> sensors hidden behind the drivers side header.
> >>>>>> 
> >>>>>> Only other noteworthy item is on the passenger dizzy there's a sensor
> >>> that
> >>>>>> the plug socket had crumbled a bit, I cleaned it up and made a clamp
> >>> of
> >>>>>> sorts to hold it in place, could that be my issue?
> >>>>>> 
> >>>>>> -John
> >>>>>> john at bysinger.net
> >>>>>> '90 V8Q
> >>>>>> 
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> -- john at bysinger.net
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> _______________________________________________
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> >>>>> 
> >>>>> 
> >>>> 
> >>>> 
> >>>> --
> >>>> john at bysinger.net
> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>> Audifans V8 mailing list
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> >>>> 
> >>> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> --
> >> john at bysinger.net
> >> 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -- 
> > john at bysinger.net
> > _______________________________________________
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> > 
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