[V8] Timing belt change - follow up

Sat Sep 15 15:44:43 PDT 2012

What sensor is underneath the drivers side header?  orange plug under the
engine cover on the right side of the intake, routed by the front and
timing belt cover and near the power steering pump?  The cable to that one,
rubber wire coating is completely disintegrated and the plastic casing
around the sensor is crumbing.

-John

On Fri, Sep 14, 2012 at 9:23 PM, Scott Justusson <qshipq at aol.com> wrote:

> The problem with rpm codes, is they can be triggered *from* the
> intermittent stalling, not the cause of it.  Some have been known to put
> some cold water on those sensors to see if anything changes.  This sounds
> like a MAF symptom to me, are you sure that connector is secure?  Another
> issue I've seen with the older v8's is an intermittent grounded knock
> sensor causing a full max retard of the timing tables.  That DS one goes
> into a bracket on the side of the valve cover, and I've seen many that were
> grounded against the headers. Also, take a look at night, arcing wires and
> cracked distributor caps many times can send you down much more complicated
> paths than necessary.
>
> HTH
>
> Scott J
> 91 v8 Auto 3.6
> 92 v8 Auto 4.2 ABT Chipped
>
>
>
>
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: John Bysinger <doog at bysinger.net>
> To: V8 <v8 at audifans.com>
> Sent: Fri, Sep 14, 2012 10:46 pm
> Subject: Re: [V8] Timing belt change - follow up
>
>  Ok, after some help from fellow listers, I was able to rebuild the
> passenger side distributor.  I completely re-wired the connector to the
> hall sensor, and was able to bench test it with a DC 4.5V source.  I
> thought I may have assembled the ring on the cam side incorrectly, but
> again, thanks to you guys I was able to confirm I got that ring in properly.
>
> But it's still throwing a 2111 and stumbling over ~2500 RPMs in neutral,
> and completely gutless and stalling when in gear.  Just to confirm, I did
> as SJM's ECU page said and reset the memory by pulling the appropriate
> fuse, and trying again, same code.  I pulled the drivers side cover on the
> timing belt to see if there was any odd movement going on w/ the
> tensioner/dampener when it got to those RPMs.  No odd movement there
> either.  According to the SJM site 2111 indicates an RPM sensor failure,
> but I just replaced both of the sensors under the driver's dizzy earlier
> this year, barely 500 miles ago.  I rechecked their harness plugs, both
> were secure.  I also inspected the connectors, wiring and hoses that run on
> top of the engine, no real visible issues that I can tell visually.
>
> I'm really at a loss as to where to look next.  I have time this weekend to
> tinker with it, I'm hoping I can get it figured out before the Seattle fall
> rain gets here.
>
> Any tips/suggestions at this point would be very helpful.  I do have 'an
> audi guy' who has a shop 15 miles from here I could take it to, but right
> now driving it isn't possible with the stumbling, I'm trying to avoid the
> cost of getting it there if I can.  I blew my Audi budget on the timing
> belt and PS hoses.
>
> -John
> '90 V8Q
>
> On Thu, Aug 16, 2012 at 8:42 PM, John Bysinger <doog at bysinger.net> wrote:
>
> > Well I got the timing belt completed, thanks for the recommendation to use
> > BlauParts, their kit and tool rental made it nearly a breeze.  The kit was
> > amazingly complete with seals, pulleys, fluids etc.  I also replaced the
> > fan and oil pump bearings, because like everyone else said, I was in there,
> > might as well.
> >
> > I used this for reference while I was doing the work, proved very helpful:
> >
> > http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/enginemechanical/A8timingbeltreplacement.pdf
> >
> > It was nearly the same, just different Dizzy setup on the back of the
> > heads.
> >
> > I also got my leaky power steering fixed while in there, thanks again
> > spokanehose, that was the third hose I've had them done, worked great.
> >
> > But there's always something....
> >
> > I ended up having to trim about 1.5" off the end of the drivers side of
> > the top radiator hose, hose clamp pinched through it causing a leak.  Glad
> > it was there and not elsewhere in the hose so I didn't have to replace it.
> >  But the one remaining issue I'm having is keeping me from getting it back
> > on the road. It's only throwing one code: 2111.  Which based on a search of
> > the list archives is likely the crank position sensor.  Strange.  I just
> > replaced it and it's partner about 3 months before the water pump gave out,
> > so I'm pretty sure the sensor is still fine.  Behavior is it starts and
> > idles just fine, slowly increase the RPMs and around 3k it starts to act
> > like it's skipping or stumbling.  When trying to drive, similar behavior,
> > idles along just fine, try to give it some throttle and it'll stumble and
> > sometimes stall.
> >
> > I tried peaking under the dizzy to see if maybe the plugs had come loose
> > while I was putting the cam lock plates on/off but they look plugged in ok.
> >  I haven't tried re-seating them just yet since there's quite a bit of
> > engine bits in the way there and I was losing sunlight.  Thought I would
> > see if anyone had any suggestions for something to check besides those two
> > sensors hidden behind the drivers side header.
> >
> > Only other noteworthy item is on the passenger dizzy there's a sensor that
> > the plug socket had crumbled a bit, I cleaned it up and made a clamp of
> > sorts to hold it in place, could that be my issue?
> >
> > -John
> > john at bysinger.net
> > '90 V8Q
> >
>
>
>
> -- john at bysinger.net
>
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-- 
john at bysinger.net