[V8] Still having brake trouble.

[Seamus O'Carey]

It's not binding when hot. It drags the moment I start moving while still
cold.

I have a spare caliper. I'm just going to swap it out and see what happens.
Maybe I'll swap the master as well just for good measure.

Seamus
 On Jan 21, 2013 4:16 AM, "Ronald G Wainwright" <ron_01056 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Well looks like a few others agree w/me about the master.
>
>  Ron
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 20, 2013, at 11:41 PM, "Seamus O'Carey" <cheshirecatsbox at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> ~200k
>
> Seamus
>
> On Sun, Jan 20, 2013 at 7:44 PM, Ronald G Wainwright <ron_01056 at yahoo.com>wrote:
>
>> How many miles on this car?
>>
>>  Ron
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jan 20, 2013, at 9:56 PM, "Seamus O'Carey" <cheshirecatsbox at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> If I have the passenger window open I can hear the scraping sound of the
>> pads on the rotor from the moment I start moving, so there isn't even time
>> for anything to heat up. It drags when cold.
>>
>> When I did the brakes I pulled the pins and cleaned and lubed them. I
>> figured the pistons were fine since the seals didn't appear to be leaking
>> and they weren't exceptionally difficult to press back in.
>>
>> Seamus
>>
>> On Sun, Jan 20, 2013 at 4:35 PM, Ronald G Wainwright <ron_01056 at yahoo.com
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> I suggest driving the car again till it gets hot like u describe. Carry
>>> a bottle of water (cold preferably) and a wash cloth. Douce the wash cloth
>>> with the water put it in the master cylinder and continue on ur drive.
>>> Check periodically if the rotor/brake/wheel area is hot or not.
>>>  If it stays cool then the master is bad.
>>>  There defiantly should b fluid coming out the rear bleeders. Have u
>>> cleaned/removed them to check for blockage?
>>>
>>>  Ron
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Jan 20, 2013, at 7:27 PM, "Seamus O'Carey" <cheshirecatsbox at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> When I got it the brakes didn't work very well. If you stabbed the brake
>>> pedal hard the brakes would grab for a second and then the pedal would go
>>> soft and sink to the floor. Also the brake warning light was on. I think I
>>> checked with the list and the consensus was that it was probably the servo
>>> unit. After doing the diagnostic described in the manual (iirc there's a
>>> line that you pull and if it leaks it means the servo is bad) it appeared
>>> the servo was in fact faulty and so I got a replacement from Force 5.
>>>
>>> After installing the replacement servo (as well as new rotors, pads, and
>>> SS lines) there was a noticeable improvement in how the brakes performed. I
>>> drove it around for a little bit and the brakes pretty much felt normal,
>>> though the light was still on. I drove from Bellingham to Birch Bay (20.2
>>> mi) and when I got there I discovered the right front brake was smoking a
>>> little. I put my hand near it and it was noticeably hot. I stayed there for
>>> an hour to let it cool down and then drove home again, stopping
>>> periodically to let the brake cool down.
>>>
>>> When I got home I bled the brakes again and took it for a drive, this
>>> time with the windows open. I could hear the right front brake making a
>>> consistent scraping sound. I've bled the brakes several more times since
>>> then, but it never changes. I tried again today and found that I can only
>>> get fluid to just drip out of the rear calipers. It's been too long for me
>>> to remember if this happened the previous times though. If I step on the
>>> brake pedal more fluid will come out, but it returns to a drip right after.
>>> This is with my pressure bleeder hooked up to the reservoir at ~14psi.
>>>
>>> I did keep the master cylinder from my pearl car, so if that's the
>>> problem at least I have a spare.
>>>
>>> Seamus
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jan 20, 2013 at 3:16 PM, Ronald G Wainwright <
>>> ron_01056 at yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Or a wheel bearing. U said the brakes work fine aft the servo install?
>>>>  Explain a little better what happened and what's happening.....
>>>>
>>>>  Ron
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>> On Jan 20, 2013, at 5:31 PM, "Seamus O'Carey" <
>>>> cheshirecatsbox at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> > I parted my pearl V8 because I got this silver V8, but that was like
>>>> two
>>>> > years ago I've never been able to drive it. There's an issue with the
>>>> > brakes and I'm just running out of patience. These cars only go for
>>>> around
>>>> > $800 if they're running so if I can't fix the brakes soon I might as
>>>> well
>>>> > part it out. I know I can at least get money for the hood and rear
>>>> > differential. They're great cars if they're running, but I've put my
>>>> less
>>>> > time and money into my 4kq and it's never let me down.
>>>> >
>>>> > Anyway, the right front caliper drags. I decided to try, yet again, to
>>>> > bleed the system, but I can barely get the rear brakes to drip fluid
>>>> out of
>>>> > the bleeder valve. Which is weird, since the rear brakes always
>>>> seemed to
>>>> > work. The manual just says to hook up a US1116 to the reservoir and
>>>> bleed
>>>> > RR, LF, RF, LF, RR. I'm using a MOTIV bleeder at 14psi. I've tried
>>>> doing it
>>>> > with the car running as well as not. Nothing seems to change and there
>>>> > doesn't seem to be any info in the manual.
>>>> >
>>>> > The brake warning light was on when I got it. The brake bomb had been
>>>> > replaced, so I did some diagnostics and determined that the servo was
>>>> bad.
>>>> > I replaced it and while I was at it I installed new rotors, pads, and
>>>> SS
>>>> > lines on all 4 corner. After the install the warning light was still
>>>> on,
>>>> > but the brakes seemed to work pretty well. I then drove it about 20
>>>> miles
>>>> > only to discover the right front brake was really hot when I got to my
>>>> > destination. I haven't driven it more than maybe 30 yards since then.
>>>> It's
>>>> > a great looking driveway ornament.
>>>> >
>>>> > Please help. My affection for the V8 is quickly dwindling.
>>>> >
>>>> > Seamus
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>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>