[V8] V8 timing belt tools

[Jason Wilkerson]

George,  I have personally done this to set the time on a PT motor (3.6)  It should be the same for the ABH (4.2) as they both have distributors.  This does NOT work on the later ABZ motor - which I do have the tools for if you need them.  I also have the tools for the later 5v motors where you hold the cams in the Front of the engine.  Read ALL of this before attempting to do this - if you are not comfortable with everything below there is a great chance of YOU screwing your motor up bad!
1. Set the engine to TDC2. Remove the distributor caps and mounting plates, check the slots in the back of the cams.  They are offset and should be parallel with the deck of the head (the surface that the valve cover mates to)- if they are not, rotate the crank one full revolution.  You can use a small straight edge to check this.3.  Loosen the cam to sprocket bolts and remove the timing belt.  Pull the sprocket from the taper fit on the cam with a puller (do NOT turn the cams at this point - read: Bent valves), re-install sprockets loosely and install bolts within a turn or so shy of tightening sprockets.  (you should be able to spin the sprockets freely without turning the cam - but not so loose they wobble around)4.  Do all of your timing belt stuff (New rollers, tensioner, water pump, etc.)  I forget how to adjust the tensioner - If you need to know that let me know and I'll look it up.   Make sure the tension side of the belt is tight.5.  Double and Triple check that the crank is still at TDC and that both slots in the cams are perfect with the head.  You can use a large drag link to adjust this if it is off.  It will only be off if the new belt is different in length than the old one.6.  Tighten the cam bolts (I don't think they take alot of torque? maybe 16 ft lbs? - don't take my word for it!)7.  Rotate the crank clockwise 4 times - double check all marks.
Additionally - if you want to try, you can leave the sprockets tight with the cams, mark the cams in relation to the belt cover housing, install the new belt and check that the slots line up in the back.  They should be very close unless the new belt is different in length then the old belt when it was new. 
Heater core is a pain - detach some ducts inside on each side of the tunnel, remove rain tray and strap from under hood and use pry bars to remove heater box.  Split heater box and remove core.  Make sure all the flaps line up correctly before putting box back together.  Make sure weather stripping is undamaged when putting box back to avoid leaks.
Rack is a pain too - I have always done them when the engine or tranny is out - still a pain.  I have heard you can coerce it out through one side or the other but prepare for much frustration!
Good luck and hope that all makes sense!    On Monday, February 27, 2017 2:17 PM, Ben Castle <grillage at mac.com> wrote:
 

 If all else fails, I’ve had luck renting them from force5auto.com


On 2/27/17, 1:12 PM, "V8 on behalf of George Verbryck" <v8-bounces at audifans.com on behalf of georgeverbryck at yahoo.com> wrote:

    Hi I see the list doesn't have much activity . Hopefully however some one can still help out. I got a 92 a couple of years ago and now its time to get it going again, third attempt. I need to do the timing belt and was wondering if anyone was in the Los Angeles area who could lend or rent me the special tools. I have read that all the tools may not be necessary. I have not the job before so any guidance would be appreciated. In addition I need to do the rack and heater core so I am looking for recommendations for  sources for these parts. The car passed smog last time with like new numbers so I am making a big push to get it out there one more time. I figure if I do all this big stuff I can live with the idiosyncrasies until it dies. Thanks , George 
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