[Vwdiesel] Rear Wheel Bearing Adjustment

[Val Christian]

>
> on 4/3/03 7:53 PM, LBaird119 at aol.com at LBaird119 at aol.com wrote:
>
> > The problem I have is the lack of a definable preload.  The Bentley manual
> > says to tighten is so that you can still slide the washer with the blade of a
> > screwdriver.  Now how's THAT for a repeatable tension!  Too tight and the
> > bearings get hot and roll hard.  Too loose and the wheel will wobble and
> > the bearing will also fail early.  Good to give the rear wheels a wiggle
> > every
> > now and then.  Just put your foot on the top of the tire and get it rocking
> > a little.  New bearings really tend to loosen up and need re-tensioned.  If
> > there's wobble you can hear or feel, then you can usually feel it when you
> > corner as well.
> > Loren
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> The way I have always done this, from back in my air cooled days, is to
> tighten the nut up so that they is now play in the bearing, this sets it in
> the races, and then slightly loosen the nut until I can just move the drum
> back and forth.  then adjust the nut lock so that the cotter pin can go
> through the hole.  I have NEVER had a bearing fail after being replaced and
> adjusted in this manner.  Hayden

The problem is that races get pounded into the drum over time.  I simply
retension the nut after several weeks of driving, which is about 500 miles.

There's little difference between "hand tight" and the Bently "can't
move the washer".  I then tighten just enough to get the cotter in.
It's important to do this with the wheel on.  The increased mass keeps
things spinning while you adjust the nut tension.

Dust caps are about $1.60 from the dealer.  They're cheap, so I buy ahead.

I've always used a 8" crescent wrench for this.  I have an old larger-than-
life jawed one, which opens at a right angle to the handle.

The bottom line is that adjusting bearings is a touch thing, guys.

Val