[Vwdiesel] valve shims & pliers

[LBaird119 at aol.com]

> cyl    1    2    3    4
>  valve e i  e i  i e  i e

  Correct as I recall.  If it isn't that then it's the opposite!  ;-)  I
always just
follow the intake runners.  They run straight to the valve.
>
>  2. valve shims: the shims are worn like a donut, center is high, etched
shim
>  thickness is readable. i mic'd both outer worn surface and center which was
>  not worn to verify the original thickness. so my quandry is this, what
>  thickness do i base my new shim on, the center or the edge where it is
worn?
>  i would assume the outer which is where the shim bears against the keeper.

  I would go with the middle thickness.  That's what you'll be reading when
you put a shim in there at TDC.  Are they worn that much or what?  If it's
too bad then I'd be suspicious of poor oil change schedules  :(
>
>  3. rate of wear: this has me a bit concerned. a couple of my shims are
thin,
>  3.35 mm on the intake valves. for now, they are in spec, but on the low
side
>  of the range (0.007" and 0.008"). i assume that my valves are receeding
like
>  all valves do. how long before i run out of shim and need to do a valve
job?
>  i realize that this is sort of a rhetorical question, but i ask others with
>  more experience with these engines how often did they find that they had to
>  change shims? i know i have to check yearly or 15k miles, that is a check,
>  not a replacement guideline. did you change shims every 15k miles?
>
  You only swap shims around to make the proper clearances. Use another
used one or a new one when you don't have one that you need.  You don't
routinely "change" them as a wear item.
I had one that sunk in about that far.  It never really changed after that.
It
may have been where it ended up after a valve grind.  No need to worry
unless it keeps dropping.  Then you'll need some new seats or a head.
     Loren