[Vwdiesel] Struts and Bearings and alignments

[Nate Wall]

I've heard people say that the play in the strut
housing-to-steering knuckle/hub play is so minimal
that the camber will not change after removing and
installing the strut housing. I think it can.
Additionally, I'd even bet toe might change if tho old
struts and bearings were really worn (change in hub
height from the ground). Bentley mentions that there
is somewhere around one degree of slop in the
strut-to-hob mounting w/ the bolts loose, which
equates to 1 deg. of adjustment (in the section in
suspension & steering, subsection, alignment).
Additionally, when getting the car aligned, if camber
can not be brought into specs, VW sells slightly
smaller diameter bolts for the strut housing to hub
mounting. This gives more "slop" in the mounting
before the bolts are tightened.  What a brilliant way
to make an adjustment, right? They actually call them
"Camber Bolts" and Bentley mentions them, and mentions
how much additional adjustment (in degrees) you can
get. I bought a set several years ago and have them
mounted on one side, although I don't think I need
them since my camber is always real close to spec.
Nice even tire wear accross my tread. On my Michelin
X-Ones I now have 80,000 miles on them and it looks
like about 1/3 of the tread is left.

--Nate

--- LBaird119 at aol.com wrote:
> > On my next strut job, I think I'm going to try
> taking the casting with the
> >  wheel bearing off the ball joint.  This requires
> that the brake caliper
> >  be pulled, and that casting be pulled from the
> lower ball joint.
> >  Additionally, the tierod and the drive shaft need
> to removed.  But the
> >  advantage would be that the alignment would not
> need to be redone.
> >  That could be a good thing, especially if the
> alignment is already fine.
> >  If anyone uses or can comment on this alternate
> technique, I'd appreciate
> >  it.
>
>   I don't fully tend to agree with this but I've
> been told several different
> times
> that if you so much as loosen the axle nut you can
> mess with the alignment.
> Personally I'd much rather mark and pull the two
> bolts than pull the whole
> assembly, unless you need to do a wheel bearing at
> the same time.
>   I've always had no problem with the insert
> retaining nut.  I clamp the
> housing in a bench mounted vise then use a 24" pipe
> wrench.  Nearly
> always comes off with the first or second grunt.  :)
>      Loren
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