[Vwdiesel] Need help getting parts from Germany

[James Hansen]

> You mean heat shields here, they act as the nozzle,
> yes??
> I ran this motor for maybe 15 miles with no heat
> shields.  IOpps.  Did not seem to hurt.

No.  The injector screws apart. On the body there are two places you can
apply a wrench. These screw apart with standard thread CCW rotation.  Inside
there is another round bit that comprises the working bits of the injector
itself. On the outside of this part, there is a part number etched onto the
outer circumference that details what type it is. You can't actually take
this apart to look, as it will leak after almost guaranteed unless you relap
the halves to fit exactly. Usually, the info is on the outside, but you
wouldn't want to bet the farm on it.

 >
> James, you do know exactly what you are talking about.

Weeeelll... don't count on it :-)), but thanks.
 Everyone can be wrong, me included.  Memory isn't 100% accurate.


>  Well, I have only come in contact with one other guy
> on this list named Ken Hunter from NM who has the same
> motor setup.  He has had a big problem with
> overheating on short trips, when it should not.

The overdriving of the water pump that Roger Brown suggests is a good idea.
He uses a smaller pulley on the water pump to speed it up. I think it was
Roger anyway...

 It may help him.  This in a van?  I assume he's burped it properly? It can
be a frickin nightmare to get proper coolant flow in a van after it's pipes
are full of air. Friend in Saskatoon had this trouble after a loss of
coolant episode.  Other than that, change the thermostat first, it may be
sticky. Use OEM or good copy, the aftermarket stats range from good to
worthless.

> My motor has run well, steady water temp and oil temp.
>  I run about 135 psi oil pressure on cold motor and 70
> psi hot.   I think I am under powered but hard to
> tell, I have nothing to compare it to.  I also
> installed a 82 air cooler vanagon trans so I could get
> a faster top speed without killing the motor.  Now I
> run nice at 68mph, could not do that with 82 diesel
> trans.
>
> What is the name of the meter to use to measure
> exhaust gas temp on a NA motor.

Same thing.  You can just drill and tap the cast manifold.  Dana suggested
the easiest way, just go by smoke, and you will be ballpark, but I'm afraid
you can cook an NA with overfueling, a local guy I know did just that. He
bored holes into the pistons, and the injectors were good. Only cause I
could come up with was gross overfuelling after adjusting it like he would a
holley... go two turns and try it...  NOT!  If you are careful, and start
from a known underfuelled point, and bring it up to the point of smoke, then
back off a tad, it will be safe, no trouble

 I know most guy with
> turbo just bore and tap a place for the sensor on top
> of the exhaust manifold, how do i do it with a meter
> and where?
> Sorry, not familar with this.

Have a look at the Isspro site, they make some nice gauges.  Pricey, but
nice.  Another way is to use a multimeter that has a probe that measures
temperature.  Some of these are pretty small, and are just thermocouple
wire, so the hole can be pretty small, and easily closed after, like with
some silicone and a hose clamp..

>
> My fuel was turned up by maybe 1/2 cc above spec for
> NA pump, we did it on a bench testing machine.  I have
> never seen any major black smoke, so maybe I can go
> more.  EGT is safest way to judge.

Yep.  That's my story and i'm sticking with it. heh. Try turning your max
fuel screw in a quarter turn at a time, then leadfoot it and see if you make
smoke or not.  It has to really pour it out to do any damage in an NA unless
the timing is way off or something.
-James


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.459 / Virus Database: 258 - Release Date: 2/25/2003