[Vwdiesel] UPDATE: top speed for 82 Rabbit 1.6L NA

[LBaird119 at aol.com]

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On the third try I kept the starter engaged a few seconds, pressed the
accelerator a tad, and it kept running. I'm afraid this is bad for the starter
though. Think I have a bad glow plug?

  Sounds kinda like air leakage into the pump.  Could also be a bad glow
plug or two, poor injector pattern, or slightly retarded timing.  If it runs
fine with the knob out but falters with it in then the timing's probably
right or pretty close.  This is while the engine is cold morning cold.

>
> Also, the cold start knob pulls out about halfway smoothly, then gets stiff
> and takes some extra force to get it out the rest of the way. To the point
> where the knob flexes and I am afraid I am going to split the rubber. Where
> should I lubricate it, and with what? Or is that how it is supposed to be?

  Try pulling it with the engine running or cranking.  That usually makes
a big difference.  For some reason, it the timing's off then it seems to
be much harder to pull.  Must be how the engine stops and the relation
of the pump plunger position.  Seems like I had a no-start situation when
I had one that was that stiff though.  I had it 180 out of time so it didn't
start at all.
  It's usually not the cable unless it's been kinked.  If it won't pull in
and
out all the way even when running then maybe the cable is bent or out of
adjustment.  When the cable's pushed all the way in.  The timing advance
lever on the pump, should be resting on it's stop.

>
> I did hook up a vacuum line for the HVAC controls to the vacuum check valve
> between the vacuum pump and brake booster. One of the outlets had a rubber
> plug on it, so I pulled that off and put on the vacuum hose. I get brief vacuum
> noses when changing from Vent or Heat to Defrost and back (no noise between
> vent and heat). When I turn the car off, I can hear a slight hissing that
> sounds like it is coming from the vicinity of the heater controls. I'm not sure
> I have a good enough vacuum to actually move the flaps in the airbox. The
> brakes do not seem affected.


  If you don't have enough vacuum for the controls then your brake pedal
should be pretty darn hard.  Sounds like you do have some leakage to
fix.  There's an appropriate grease that goes a long way toward sealing
up leaks.  Vaseline works fine in some instances.

>
> Other interesting notes....mileage on the last tank was down to around 38
> mpg -- a result of lots of full throttle highway runs? Since getting the timing
> belt work done, I've pushed it a lot harder than my first tank (47mpg) when
> I didn't trust it not to self destruct. Most 0-60 accelerations involve full
> throttle and shifting right before the dots on the speedometer at least
> through 3rd gear. I usually shift to 4th around 50-55 mph. It's more fun that way
> 8^). I am able to get 72-80 mph top speed on the highway depending on the
> grade. Still have trouble with SUVs getting in the way.
>
> SUV's will always be in your way.  It has to do with your available power
and their available reasoning power.  ;-)
  I have a rather spunky Rabbit and it takes careful conservation of
momentum tactics to pass like you have 100hp under the hood.  It
also takes all you can muster out of the engine.  One springtime
trip over the mountain pass was enough to cause my air filter to
be the power restriction in the system.  Nothing big but I could tell
it wasn't right.  Blowing it out did the trick.  Any air leaks into the
fuel supply line will cost you power.  I put 2" exhaust from the resonator
back and that made a high rpm difference that was very noticeable.  It
all adds up little by little.  I don't know what my top speed is but once
I get near 80 it takes too long to get past there to worry about it.
     Loren