[Vwdiesel] Engine rebuild, now sucking diesel

[Simon Rook]

As Bio diesel dissolves most neoprene based rubbers
(as well as attacking zinc protected lines and
creating sediment when stood for too long) I doubt
that it was crud loosened from the tank!

Simon

 --- Sandy Cameron <scameron at compmore.net> wrote: > At
10:07 AM 9/4/03 +0000, you wrote:
>
> > I had just observed the air but not investigated
> furthur.
> >The innline is clear, just where the returnline
> goes out  you can
> >visibly see air gushing out about every 4 or so
> cycles.
>
> If no air is entering the suck line, it  is probably
> a small amount of
> leakage at the shaft seal.
>
> A worn shaft seal will allow the vane pump tosuck a
> little air in while
> running, and, usually, let a little fuel run out at
> the shaft end when at rest.
>
> Another symtom of shaft seal leakage is the pump
> going dry overnight, as
> fuel is "syphoned" back to the tank, which is lower
> than the pump.
> Volks installs at the factory, a check valve in the
> supply line (and return
> line on some models) to prevent reverse syphoning
> when car is at rest.
>
> A significant test is to park the car nose down over
> night, and it starts ok
> in the morning, but nose up, it is starved.
>
> My old crock (500,000km) has a bit of leakage there,
> and all of the above
> happen, in addition to loosing it when the fuel is
> low in thetank.
>
> I have installed an outboard motor type squeeze bulb
> in the supply line to
> deal with the occasional no-start problem.
>
> Check valve:
> located at front edge of right rear weel well, in
> the supply line comming
> from the water separator. A plastic widget about
> 1/2" dia. and 1/2" long,
> spliced into the rubber part of the line.
>
> Fragile: I have had one separate at the joint
> between the 2 halves of the
> body and leak air into the line when running, leak
> fuel when stopped.
>
> Flakey: I had one get sticky when I was running
> veggie/diesel mix. It would
> stick open a little, probably crud loosened from the
> inside of the tank by
> the veggie oil.
> opened one and observed that it has a little rubber
> disc in it that the
> veggie may have softened or made sticky. It would
> not close completely in
> reverse, and was sticky opening in forward.
>
> Expensive: Dealership quoted $60 for it. We both
> laughed at the same time!.
>
> Moral:  Always strip parters completely, salvage all
> you can at the yard
> when shopping other stuff, they're usually free
>
> Part-outs:  I recently bought an 86 for the engine.
> which seemed to run
> well.Broken subframe.
> I parted everything. entire fuel system, lines,
> engine mounts, dash, kept
> the front end. should have kept the hood (damn deer)
> Don't need doors right
> now, but clean trunk lid in woodshed. Usually you
> can get someone to pay you
> $35 for the corpse, as long as it has wheels on the
> back. Save everything
> you can store (the scotchman saves the pig's squeal
> for his pipes) Most of
> what I saved is going into a gas carat, along with
> the engine.
>
> Stop press:  A neighbour who is selling his house
> has just given me another
> gas Carat, full set aluminum wheels (automatic, ugh)
> for $1. He drove it to
> my yard.
> Might even put it back on the road (with steel
> wheels)
>
> Sandy
>
> _______________________________________________
> vwdiesel mailing list
> vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

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