[Vwdiesel] Broken Power Steering Bolts (fwd)

Fri Aug 6 11:00:48 EDT 2004

> Good one Val.  Just to add, go and buy a left hand drill bit to drill your
> easy out pilot holes with.  You will be amazed how many times the bolt comes

I agree with James on the LH bit.  I have some, but quality LH bits are
not readily found at car parts counters, Sears or WalMart.  Any industrial
tool store or supply house has them.  

If they're available, by all means.

For most people, a oxyacetylene torch will be the show stopper.  BTW,
if my lobby efforts have you thinking of such a torch, buy small.
Yep, as small as you can find.  Not micro, but small.  Aircraft
torch size.  I have a Linde which I got 28 years ago, after borrowing
a friend's mid-size torch.  It's great!  I use smaller hoses, which are
still available at a welding supply house.

I've silver soldered starter and altenator brushes with the torch, and
I've cut farm machinery frames with it.  For real welding, you probably 
want some kind of an electric buzz box, or a wire feed type system.

For old car work, oxyacetylene and compressed air (impact wrench, chisel,
cleaning, etc.) are part of the entry tickets towards allowing your time
to be productive and reduce the swearing you do.

Val

> out of the hole when drilling, or at least frees up enough to wiggle out.
> Yeah, just from drilling the hole.  So much so that I made some of my own
> stuff out of dead end mills- I grind left hand flutes onto the broken stub
> of an end mill, and when the thing gets in far enough, there is no room for
> chip clearance- it jams and the broken bolt starts to back out. Almost
> pleasurable to use.  That aside, use left hand drills (where the spiral cuts
> going counter-clockwise) and you will be impressed.
> -James
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: vwdiesel-bounces+jhsg=sasktel.net at vwfans.com
> [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces+jhsg=sasktel.net at vwfans.com]On Behalf Of Val
> Christian
> Sent: Friday, August 06, 2004 6:50 AM
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Cc: H .Hagar
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Broken Power Steering Bolts (fwd)
> 
> 
> Lacking a plasma torch in my tool box, I use oxy acetylene.  For the
> bolts you've broken, I'd use a 4 or 6 cfm tip for my torch.  To make it
> easier, I'd predrill the bolt, and have a couple of EZouts on hand.
> Heat the bolt until it's a dull red, quickly, and then tap the EZout
> into it while lightly turning the EZout.  Use a tap wrench on the EZout,
> which holds the extractor firmly.  Putting the EZout in while the
> bolt is hot and plastic, helps create flutes in the bolt, which will
> give you greater torque capability.  You'll probably be able to use a
> #1 EZout, but you might need a #0.
> 
> After the extractor is firmly seated in the rapidly cooling bolt, you
> want to put light pressure (25 ft lbs max) on it while tapping around
> the casting with a small hammer.  As the bolt cools down through 500F,
> I start spraying penetrant on it.  You could use something like WD-40,
> but the thinner formulations, like liquid wrench, "Let Go" (a Krylon
> product which is really great!), PB blaster, etc.  work better, but have
> the disadvantage in that they are more volitile and cook off faster.
> 
> Keep tapping the area around the extractor.  Light raps, which have the
> effect of loosening the rust matrix, and also have some impact effect
> overcoming "sticktion".
> 
> One cycle of this process gets out 85% or better of the bolts the first
> time.  A couple of don'ts: 1. Don't use propane, it just won't heat the
> bolt fast enough, and you can damage things around the area.  2. Similar
> to the plasma cutter, don't use a cutting torch for small diameter bolts.
> With a skilled operator, it will do OK, on very large bolts, but it's
> not an acceptable method for small diameter bolts.  3. Don't over torque
> the EZout.  They're kinda brittle.  I have one (a #4) that I managed to
> turn about 30 degrees without breaking.  I keep it round to marvel at,
> because generally they will snap pretty easily.  4. Thermal shock and
> mechanical shock are your friend.  Penetrant oil, especially if the area
> is rusted is also your friend.
> 
> The plus of this technique is, where there's access to broken bolts, I've
> always been able to remove the bolt segment.  Once or twice it's taken
> 3 or 4 cycles.
> 
> Oh, a couple of times, working on farm equipment, I've mounted the EZout
> in a 3/8" adapter, and put it on a "mouse" (small impact tool).  With the
> mouse set to a low setting, I can apply continuous light mechanical shock
> while the bolt cools.  The spraying of penetrant will cool the bolt
> segment faster than the surrounding area, and helps free it.  Use a straw,
> and expect to make lots of smoke.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> Val
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Forwarded message:
> >
> >  My adjuster bolt was seized allowing the pump to vibrate a little.
> > Could this have fatigued the bolts and caused them to fail?  Has anyone
> > else had this problem?
> >
> >
> >   Loose accessory on a diesel cause the bolts to break?  Nah, never!
> > (yeah, you bet it will.)  I don't envy you getting them out. :(  We have
> > a guy locally that uses a plasma torch to blow out busted bolts.  Does
> > a really nice job and beats fighting tough ones.  If an e-z out doesn't
> > get it first try or two.
> >      Loren
> 
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