[Vwdiesel] ARP Head Studs - OIL IN COOLANT

[Will Taygan]

I ask forgiveness for the cross-postings, I thought this would be of interest to folks.

This is not a criticism of ARP, it's a criticism of a poor previous owner.

1980 vw truck 1.6NA diesel - oil in the coolant reservoir - ARP head studs

Alright, I opened up the Valve cover and found ARP head studs installed in the 1980 diesel truck.  The PO didn't retorque the studs after the last head gasket (2000 miles ago), oil leaked into the coolant reservoir so I got the truck for a good price.

I'm hoping that it's just the head gasket.  It drives fine, no overpressure, no overheating, just oil in the reservoir.  Anything else I should look for other than the head gasket/cracked head/cracked block?

ARP says their studs are re-usable.  Although they don't have a kit for the 1.6L diesel, the 1.8l 8v gasser kit uses 11mm studs bottom end and 7/16" top end.  I'm assuming these are what was used.  ETKA gives the 1980 diesel head bolt part as 049 103 385B and the dimensions as M11x1,5x96  the 1985 1.8l gas golf is 049 103 385A M11x1,5x100.  I'm assuming this means it's 4mm longer.  Seems like that much is sticking up from the nut on top of the bolt in the head.

ARP says finger tighten the studs then to torque with SAE 30 wt oil to 80# or with their special lube to 65#.  Bentley says to torque to 90# with head bolts.  ARP says use their specs, does this sound right?  I'll probably use 30 wt oil.

** ARP has a 12-point nut on there, can I use the regular craftsman 12-point socket to get it off or should I be looking for a special socket?

Finally, the head gasket notches mean different things on a early-1980 and 81+late vehicles.  Anyway to tell if a 2-notch early gasket was replaced by a 2-notch late gasket?  I'm trying to figure out why the gasket (I think) failed.

Thanks Y'all

Will Taygan
Concrete, WA