[Vwdiesel] Engine parts everywhere! :-)

[LBaird119 at aol.com]

I was surprised at how good the rod bearings looked - no 
perceptible sign of wear at all, although they are single layer, so it could 
be 
hard to spot. The crank bearings showed a bit of wear since I replaced them 
about 30k kms ago, but I suspect just from seating in. The #3 thrust bearing 
was down to copper on both sides, which I guess indicates the crank end 
play was too loose?


  My Rabbit's rod bearings were nearly like new with somewhere between 
100k and 150k miles on it.  At the end, one was bad from constantly losing 
oil and it sucked air too long in a corner.  There are sort of three layers 
to them.  First is a dull, very thin, soft gray.  Then there's a more shiny 
slilver with copper at the "oh crap" level.
  Many to most of the thrust bearings I've seen showed copper.  Too much 
time sitting at lights with the clutch in?  My Jetta had a REALLY stiff 
clutch 
pedal so that may have been part of why the thrust failed on it.

> 
> I could not detect play in the int shaft, although it is stiff to turn... I 
> have 
> suspected these bearings for years, but I guess a machine shop will have to 
> pull them?


  They are usually still tight even when they're shot.  They tend to flake 
off 
and lose oil pressure.  With a long drift you can drive them out. In is a  
little trickier as is making/keeping them sized so the shaft will still turn.

> 
> Injection pump had some axial play - I could move the shaft in &out maybe 
> 1mm - this can't be good. The turbo bearing seemed tight &smooth.


  IIRC the shaft does have some in/out play until the gear/pulley is 
torqued down.  Turbos last a LONG time and usually have a little 
side to side but should have no end play.

> 
> In all, it was a good morning of pulling things apart, but now I have a big 
> mess to clean up... and I need to start searching for a machine shop to hot 
> tank the block and replace the int shaft bearings, and rebuild the head for 
> me, 
> or at least do a valve grind &new guides, etc. I saw no signs of head gasket 
> 
> leakage, but it should be checked I guess. Do these shops normally measure 
> the bores also, or should I be looking to borrow the tools?
> 

  Most shops should be able to measure the bores.  Checking for head gasket 
leaks entails staring at the gasket, looking for places in the metal ring, 
that 
show darkening or just a different look, indicating leakage.
  You can r&r the valve guides yourself and save some money.  They're 
easy to do too.  :)  I've found the exhaust valves usually need replacing 
due to wear on the stems.  Of course disassembly takes a special spring 
compressor.
     Loren