[Vwdiesel] Timing belt

[McCanless, James]

http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=534
Racerx has a unique way to change the BELT ONLY that is worthy of a look

Troy

-----Original Message-----
From: vwdiesel-bounces+james.mccanless=lmco.com at vwfans.com
[mailto:vwdiesel-bounces+james.mccanless=lmco.com at vwfans.com] On Behalf
Of Sandy Cameron
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2004 7:53 PM
To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Timing belt


The above subject, according to Hagar's suggestion about headers for
searching digest.

I have done 2 belts this year so far, and 2 more to do.

1st was on an NA on the work table in the shop, so easy.

I set everything for TDC, shoved the 11mm long socket in the pump
sprocket hole, 
Cleaned the back plate at the top of the cam sprocket, and with a q-tip
(r) dabbed a dot of yellow paint on the top sprcket tooth, and the back
plate right behind it.

Zipped out the 4 crank pulley screws, removed them, then the lower belt
guard. (The WP pulleys were already off, more about that later)

Removed the tensioner nut, and slid the belt off the upper sprockets, no
problem.

installed the new belt around the crank sprocket, slid the new tensioner
part way on to the bolt. With the belt laid against the tensioner, I had
no trouble starting the belt on to the cam and pump sprockets. Slid them
across the sprockets, along with the tensioner on its bolt, Checked all
timing marks, job done.

My tension calibration is to tighten it to the point where it is just
possible to move the belt back and forth on the pump or cam sprocket a
little with thumbs and fingers. it will only slide about 1/8" before
tightening up. This assures me there is minimum allowable side thrust on
the pump shaft.

Note that I did not remove the cam shaft cover, with its attendant
gasket problems

The engine ran beautifully, and the change in "knock" with the cold
start advance lever assured me the micro-timing was OK.

2nd one was in-car, last week. Could not get the &%#@$* water pump
pulley bolts out

Wit all the above marked, loosened, etc, I was stuck with the lower belt
guard held in place by the WP pulley and no way to get it out..

With a few minutes of fiddling around, I was able to position the belt
guard so the belt would come out without taking the guard right off. It
slipped out over the C-shaft bolt, and the new one went in the same way.

I had no problem getting the belt on the other 2 sprockets using my
"both at the same time" method. Once again, making sure the cam sprocket
was carefully marked before removing the old one, and checking
everything before sliding the belt on, no timing problems, and it runs
and sounds fine. Once again, no need to uncover or time the cam.

Having licked the water pump pulley insanity, And bypassing the cam
timing, with all it's tight bolt problems, timing belts are now "easy"

While I will not argue the necessity of "micro-timing " the pump with
the dial indicator, I have found that if it is timed right to begin
with, it will probably still be timed right after the belt change. Being
lazy, and a fan of "IIABDFI" (if it aint broke, dont fix it), this works
for me.

Having done head gaskets on 2 friends cars in the past, I have got past
the timing belt paranoia, and it's just another little job to be done
from "time to time" {:-)


Sandy 

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