[Vwdiesel] Timing belt

[McCanless, James]

I agree 100% you should always change the tensioner if the belt needed
changing. What I found attractive to this technique is that if your
timing etc is good then you would not change. I would never recommend
doing this without changing the tensioner at the same time.

Thanks Erik.

Troy

-----Original Message-----
From: Erik Lane [mailto:erikjlane at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2004 1:41 PM
To: McCanless, James; vwdiesel at vwfans.com
Subject: RE: [Vwdiesel] Timing belt


i would suggest against that, or any changing of the
timing belt without changing the tensioner. you might
get away with it a time or two. i didn't even have it
work once for me. the tensioner went out on me after
putting the new belt on. i guess the bearing couldn't
take the new strain. it froze up on the highway and
took out the timing belt. engine locked up and i had
to have the head rebuilt, of course.

so i ALWAYS change the tensioner now. yes, it's a bit
of extra work and money, but even if only 1 in 10 were
to fail if i didn't do it i would still consider
myself ahead of the game!

good luck
erik
--- "McCanless, James" <james.mccanless at lmco.com>
wrote:

> http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=534
> Racerx has a unique way to change the BELT ONLY that
> is worthy of a look
> 
> Troy
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> vwdiesel-bounces+james.mccanless=lmco.com at vwfans.com
>
[mailto:vwdiesel-bounces+james.mccanless=lmco.com at vwfans.com]
> On Behalf
> Of Sandy Cameron
> Sent: Friday, October 15, 2004 7:53 PM
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] Timing belt
> 
> 
> The above subject, according to Hagar's suggestion
> about headers for
> searching digest.
> 
> I have done 2 belts this year so far, and 2 more to
> do.
> 
> 1st was on an NA on the work table in the shop, so
> easy.
> 
> I set everything for TDC, shoved the 11mm long
> socket in the pump
> sprocket hole,
> Cleaned the back plate at the top of the cam
> sprocket, and with a q-tip
> (r) dabbed a dot of yellow paint on the top sprcket
> tooth, and the back
> plate right behind it.
> 
> Zipped out the 4 crank pulley screws, removed them,
> then the lower belt
> guard. (The WP pulleys were already off, more about
> that later)
> 
> Removed the tensioner nut, and slid the belt off the
> upper sprockets, no
> problem.
> 
> installed the new belt around the crank sprocket,
> slid the new tensioner
> part way on to the bolt. With the belt laid against
> the tensioner, I had
> no trouble starting the belt on to the cam and pump sprockets. Slid 
> them across the sprockets, along with the tensioner on
> its bolt, Checked all
> timing marks, job done.
> 
> My tension calibration is to tighten it to the point
> where it is just
> possible to move the belt back and forth on the pump
> or cam sprocket a
> little with thumbs and fingers. it will only slide
> about 1/8" before
> tightening up. This assures me there is minimum
> allowable side thrust on
> the pump shaft.
> 
> Note that I did not remove the cam shaft cover, with
> its attendant
> gasket problems
> 
> The engine ran beautifully, and the change in
> "knock" with the cold
> start advance lever assured me the micro-timing was
> OK.
> 
> 2nd one was in-car, last week. Could not get the
> &%#@$* water pump
> pulley bolts out
> 
> Wit all the above marked, loosened, etc, I was stuck
> with the lower belt
> guard held in place by the WP pulley and no way to
> get it out..
> 
> With a few minutes of fiddling around, I was able to
> position the belt
> guard so the belt would come out without taking the
> guard right off. It
> slipped out over the C-shaft bolt, and the new one
> went in the same way.
> 
> I had no problem getting the belt on the other 2
> sprockets using my
> "both at the same time" method. Once again, making
> sure the cam sprocket
> was carefully marked before removing the old one,
> and checking
> everything before sliding the belt on, no timing
> problems, and it runs
> and sounds fine. Once again, no need to uncover or
> time the cam.
> 
> Having licked the water pump pulley insanity, And
> bypassing the cam
> timing, with all it's tight bolt problems, timing
> belts are now "easy"
> 
> While I will not argue the necessity of
> "micro-timing " the pump with
> the dial indicator, I have found that if it is timed
> right to begin
> with, it will probably still be timed right after
> the belt change. Being
> lazy, and a fan of "IIABDFI" (if it aint broke, dont
> fix it), this works
> for me.
> 
> Having done head gaskets on 2 friends cars in the
> past, I have got past
> the timing belt paranoia, and it's just another
> little job to be done
> from "time to time" {:-)
> 
> 
> Sandy
> 
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