[Vwdiesel] Wheel Bearing Tool -> tirade on impact (sorry)

[Val Christian]

> > Has anyone used one of the "no removal" tools for replacing bearings
> > while the hub is still on the car?  Perhaps they can comment on the 
> > tool, and how easy it may have been.
> > 
> 
>   I've seen it done once.  Not sure if my friend owns it or borrowed it for 
> his shop.  A bit tedious with a wrench but worked well it seemed.  You 
> have to pull that axle out of the way though so except for not having 
> a press, not much less work really.
>      Loren

Loren,

The _real_ benefit is that the spindle doesn't come off the strut, and 
therefore the camber does not need reseting.  It's _possible_ to replace
the spindle on the strut approximately right, but I've never been able to
do it right enough on two wheels in one sitting.  As a result, I have to 
get out my camber equipment, track gauge, and spend a couple of hours
(well maybe 1.5) tweaking and test driving everything.  Pulling the bearing
while on the car eliminates the alignment process.

I was figuring I'd do it with an airimpact wrench.  That's how I do 
spring compressions, and it saves a bunch of time.  It also reduces some
of the requirement to hold counter-torque when turning the screw (by 
inertia of the remaining assembly).

--

Shameless plug.  Really guys, if you don't have impact tools, seriously
consider them.  There are cordless impact tools made by Dewalt, Makita,
Bosch and others.  They are expensive.  There are corded impact tools
made by the same, and even one marketed by Sears.  They are big and don't
always fit in tighter places.  Clearly the best approach is to use compressed
air.  There are smaller compressors available now, than ever before.
Any compressor with some kind of a small tank will give you a few seconds
of impact.  A higher compressor pressure will help provide higher torque.

The compressor I have is a Devilbiss, marketed by Sears.  I have it plumbed 
to the garage and the basement shop, using hard copper pipe, sweat fitted.
Some people use steel pipe, I just found copper easier to cut and assemble.
Sweat fittings are available which will get you to NPT, and you can put
quick disconnects on everything.  A single filter and water separator
is needed, can can be near your tools, or somewhere after the air has cooled
a little.  

My compressor uses 220V, and it put in my basement so that it would be warm 
in the winter, and protected from the garage environment.  If you get a 
smaller, portable unit, you can just haul it outside when the car project
begins.

When pricing air tools, you should be pricing Harbor Freight.  Yes, IR
and Chicago Pneumatic make great tools.  However, I've used a $19 1/2"
air impact tool for 25 years.  A Two Guys closeout.  It probably only 
developed about 140 ft lbs, and for some things I still need to apply 
a breaker bar.  But after more than 25 years, I spent $50 for a CH 580
ft lb tool, and that will probably be all I'll ever need to get.  A 3/8"
mouse is also good to have.  My first one came from the same Ludell tool
bin, and cost less than $20 over 25 years ago.  An air chisel $10 with 
bits.  Years later I bought a sheet metal ripper for $14, which cost more
than the air hammer and the first 5 bits.  In the last 10 years, I've 
added a $9 die grinder (complete with stones), a $10 cut-off tool (3" disk).
My early tools included a pneumatic wet/dry sander and a 3/8" single speed
non reversable air drill.  My hoses probably cost more than my air tools
for the first 20 years.  

The point of all of this is that air tools do not have to be expensive.
I'd rather put my money into good handtools, lighting, jacks, and safety
equipment.  

The real reason you want to get air tools is that they will enable you 
to do things which are sometimes otherwise impossible.  I haven't done
controlled experiments, but I can tell you that everytime I figure that 
I'll just use penetrant and torque something off, I run a high probability
of regreting it.  

[eg: Last week I replaced an O2 sensor in a 95 Voyager that my kids use.
The sensor has never been removed, and we live in Western New York, where
there is lots of snow, and salt mines do great business.  I soaked the 
sensor with oil, drove the car, and then soaked it again.  Put an 18"
breaker bar on the socket, and it seemed to be unwilling to move.  I then
put the 1/2" impact on it, toned down the air pressure to less than max,
and let it hammer away for a while.  After about 5 minutes (really) the
sensor started turning.  A degree or so at a time.  But it came out and
nothing broke.  Without impact, I would have needed oxy acetylene, or it
would have taken hours, and probably some drilling and retapping.]

My mentor in car repair urged me from day one, to get compressed air
and an oxy-acetylene torch.   Those were the big outlays.  It was over
twenty years until I got a floor jack (I used low cost bottle jacks).

If you're serious about car repair, and think that you'll save some money
and time by doing so, then consider making the investment in fundamental
enabling tools.  You'll get better results, break fewer things, ultimately
take less time.  A $20 or $30 1/2" impact tool has proven to me to be
a better investment than $20 or $30 of chrome polished Snap-on combo
wrenches (the sears ones are good enough).

OK, I'll take a deep breath, and stop the tirade.  I'm not even sure 
what triggered the tirade.  Fortunately for me, my mentor was able to 
loan me the right tools to persuade me to get them.  After using them,
I saved my pennies and bought the stuff.  Over 30 years later, I realize 
daily what great advice and help he gave me.  

Best, 

Val