[Vwdiesel] Electroyisis and heater core/radiator
James Hansen
jhsg at sasktel.net
Sun Oct 31 22:06:45 EST 2004
LOL!!, okay, I would like to order two body rebuilders. I'm okay in the
radiator aspect, having just blown 1500 on a new one for my grader... Where
were you two weeks ago!
If I hooked both body rebuilders up, and ran a lead to a parts pile, would
it clone the existing automobile?
Actually to retard galvanic corrosion, you need to make the H20 a tad basic,
which is accomplished by a few spoons of washing soda to your tapwater in
the coolant system. Never forget that straight water is a very mild acid as
it has some free H+ normally. Not much, but is enough to encourage
oxidation. Adding some washing soda also causes the dissolved solids to
form soft granules, more like dust, but makes sediment, rather than coating
heated surfaces and insulating them.
Yeah, grounding things would either do nothing, as it's already grounded, or
make it worse. What needs to change is the strength of the electrolite-
make the stuff non-acidic.
-James
-----Original Message-----
From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com]On
Behalf Of Val Christian
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2004 5:09 AM
To: cvaf4u at rhinocat.com
Cc: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Electroyisis and heater core/radiator
OK, I went outside and took a meter with me. 100 mOhm meter.
Cleaned off a point on the radiator and measured between the radiator
and the mounting screw (which sits at chassis ground). 0.223v,
and less than 2 uA (ie: immeaurable on my meter).
The car is a 91, and has tap water in it. I change coolant frequently
enough, and my tap water is relatively good. The car has a replacement
radiator with 120Kmiles on it.
I would NOT ground the radiator, as that would complete the circuit,
and encourage galvanic decomposition. I wonder what kind of current
flows on a head / block combination? You can expect that the current,
whatever it might be, probably doubles with every 10F increase in
temperature, so the action would be worse on a hot head/block combination.
++++++++++++++
Coming Soon: Val's new Radiator Extender. Yep powered by just two
"D sized" batteries, this device provides ionic excitation needed to
actually REBUILD your radiator while it sits in your car! Our deluxe
version deoxidizes rotting body parts, and puts steel back in car doors,
frames, and critical parts. Send money today and reserve yours.
Order now, and receive free, a solar and radiator powered calculator.
Yes folks, this amazing calculator uses the energy stored in your radiator
to power itself when the solar energy isn't available to crunch your
numbers. Free today, if you order the "Radiator Extender" and the
"Body Rebuilder."
+++++++++++++
Val
>
> Hey Val,
> It's new to me also. The core has a red tag on it to do this check.
> It claims the anti freeze could be bad if you get .3v. I've only got
> 6 months since I flushed it and use distilled water. Looking on the
> web I've found a number of sites talking about the car having bad
> grounds and it's seeking a ground through the coolant and of course
> metal is being removed.
>
> I'm not sure how long my heater core has been in the car. The car has
> 170k miles on it. 55k since I've had it. It seems to be blocked so I
> picked up a replacement.
>
> 85 VW Golf 1.6 NA
> http://www.rhinocat.com/cvaf4u
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, 29 Oct 2004 19:54:50 -0400 (EDT), Val Christian wrote:
> > Wow, that's a new one on me. If I found a 0.3 volt differential
> > either way on my radiator or any other cooling system part, I'd
> > expect
> > leaks real soon.
> > If you want, I can go digging on the chemistry. On the other hand,
> > I
> > have enough brothers with piled high and deeper degrees, that I
> > ought
> > to just ask them.
> > Oh, to answer your question, if there is a voltage differential, you
> > can bet your front struts that some metal some place is
> > disappearing.
> > Not good. My uninformed opinion only.
> > Val
> >>
> >> I'm about to embark on changing out my heater core. The
> >> instructions
> >> state to check with a digital voltmeter with the ground lead to
> >> the
> >> neg of the battery and the positive lead to the radiator core. If
> >> it's greater than .300 volts, the aluminum heater core will fail.
> >> Well I measure mine and it's -.360 (it's negative). I know
> >> there's a
> >> couple of experts on the list. To me, if the voltage is negative
> >> it
> >> should be ok by the directions, but to me, there's got to be an
> >> electrolysis issue going on if there's any reading, positive or
> >> negative. Is my logic faulty?
> >> Bud
> >> 85 VW Golf 1.6 NA
> >> http://www.rhinocat.com/cvaf4u
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Vwdiesel mailing list
> >> Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> >> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
>
>
>
_______________________________________________
Vwdiesel mailing list
Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.782 / Virus Database: 528 - Release Date: 10/22/2004
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.782 / Virus Database: 528 - Release Date: 10/22/2004
More information about the Vwdiesel
mailing list