[Vwdiesel] AC Removal (fwd)

Val Christian val at swamps.roc.ny.us
Wed Apr 20 22:09:33 EDT 2005


Ok, I don't have your old posts, but I now recall that you wrote that
the pivot bolt was missing, and then partially found, but broken.

This situation is a little different than what I thought I was responding
to.

First, if the pivot bolt is like the factory ones I've used, they won't 
just spin out.  There's a plastic/fiber thread locker on the threads,
and it requires some torque (30 ft lbs?) just to spin the bolt.
If it didn't, I'd drill, and insert an EZout.  The problem is that with
the confined space, you'll have a problem trying to cut a groove
in the stub so that you can put more torque on it.  You might be
able to work a hacksaw blade between the compressor and the bracket,
but cutting a hardened bolt will be a pain.  Also, you'd have to 
build up the ear on the compressor, after removal of the saw kerf,
so that things would fit on reassembly.

Second, especially on the older Rabbits, I found that there were some 
cars where the pivot bolts broke, elongated compressor ears, came loose
from seemingly excessive vibration.  My 91 doesn't suffer from this at
all, but I've had several which did, and they were a real pain.

Third, your installation may differ from what I'm imagining, but you
could be faced with trying to pull the AC/alt bracket off the engine
and water pump, so that you can get adequate access to the broken bolt.
This will be an exercise in patience and innovation.  You'll probably 
have to loosen everything else, and then incrementally back out the 
bolts behind the compressor.

The good news is that you should be able to do everything without 
disconnecting the hoses from the compressor.

Let me know if I can help.

Val





Forwarded message:
> 
> I'm used to the rear pivot bolt being a allen head, and from the dealer,
> that bolt has a plastic "thread lock" on it.  Judging from the scratches,
> the allen wrench is 8mm; the scratches on my metric allen socket drives.
> Using a longer allen insert in the tool, was the key for extraction. 
> However, it _just_ fit on the rachet, and as the bolt came out further,
> it was necessary to switch to a regular length allen socket head tool.
> 
> I think I have a spare one of these in my shop.  I could measure it,
> and the thread pitch, if that would help.
> 
> Don't tell me someone crammed a standard hex head bolt in there?
> 
> If this isn't what you're looking for, let me know.
> 
> Val
> 
> > 
> > Val Christian wrote:
> > 
> > >What year and installation?  Will an open end wrench fit in there?
> > >
> > >My 91, 84 and 82 and 80 looked like you couldn't easily get 
> > >the compressor out, but a combination of open end wrenches
> > >and crow's foot wrenches, and jamed wedges, always got them off
> > >and on.  
> > > 
> > >If you get the compressor free of the bracket, you can get the pulley
> > >off, but you'll need to unmount the compressor to get clearance for
> > >the puller.  At least in my experience.
> > >
> > >Val
> > >
> > >
> > >  
> > >
> > >>Is there a method for removing the front pivot bolt when removing the AC 
> > >>Compressor? Mine seems partially obstructed by the pulley so I can't get 
> > >>a socket onto it. Is the AC Compressor pulley removable with the engine 
> > >>in the car?
> > >>
> > >>_______________________________________________
> > >>Vwdiesel mailing list
> > >>Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> > >>http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> > >>
> > >>    
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >  
> > >
> > It's an 85 Golf N/A. I don't really want to remove the pulley. I just 
> > need to get the compressor off so I can remove the bracket and then 
> > remove the broken rear pivot bolt from the bracket. Are the pivot bolts 
> > anything special or just a typical 8.8 10mm X 1.5 shoulder bolt?
> > 
> 
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