[Vwdiesel] Rabbit exhausts

[James Hansen]

Thanks:-)

I relieve the edges on the cast piece everywhere I can reach, and blend them
slightly. smooth with a flapper wheel, polish some, call that a day.
Weld the 2-1/2" to the bottom of the toilet bowl, then cut out the middle of
the flange to the point of the pipe, and run a small bead on the inside, so
you have some fill to blend. You do have to be reasonably accurate, as it
has to be on center, and don't leave high spots to screw up the metal
gasket, but it works like a hot damn.  Using a mig, use a higher % of argon
if you have access to it, so there is less spatter to clean up from the
mating surface of the flange.  Tig or just old school gas welding makes
sweet welds for this, you can flow everything out so nice, very little extra
work is needed.

Another way to do it is to attach the bowl with the clamps to your downpipe
on the bench, then cut out the bottom of the flange so you can fit a 2-1/2"
pipe, and you can get the pipe lined up exactly on center.  Weld, remove
clamps, weld the inside, blend the weld out, and smile.

Be sure to weld both inside and out, or it will crack off. I've learned
this.
-James

-----Original Message-----
From: vwdiesel-bounces+jhsg=sasktel.net at vwfans.com
[mailto:vwdiesel-bounces+jhsg=sasktel.net at vwfans.com]On Behalf Of Gary Shea
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 8:39 AM
To: VW Diesels Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Rabbit exhausts


Nice rant :)

Two questions:

What's the 'minor die grinder work'?

I'm using a Jetta exhaust manifold on a 1.6TD, I think I'm hearing you
say you'd go with the stock down pipe and toilet bowl, and add the 2
1/2" exhaust behind that.  The turbo out is nearly 2 1/2", I'd
considered building something right from the back of the turbo and using
a Saab flex pipe or something to absorb engine movement.

    Gary S

On Mon, 2005-08-08 at 02:45 -0600, James Hansen wrote:
> Dude, I have never had a problem with that exhaust connection, ever.  I
have
> alot of vw miles on them too. They are absolutely brilliant, with minor
die
> grinder work, flow excellent, and can accomodate a 2-1/2" exhaust with
ease.
> Feel free to send me your old disgusting diesel manifolds and ball flange
> connections.
> simplest thing to install and remove I have ever seen. WITH THE PROPER
> TOOL.(the wedge, not that muffler clamp contraption)
> Turn a shitload of exhaust studs off someday on a regular exhaust manifold
> connection, drill, tap, torch. and remove these same rust seized broken
> studs overhead laying on your back with pools of fresh sparks still
> smoldering in your chest hairs and you'll see what I mean.
>
> As to the ease of service...
> I agree, there is a different mindset you need to go under the hood of a
VW.
> It's called RTFM.  It's a simple methodical engine to service including
the
> ancillary devices.  Agreed, the water pump is harder to get at than a
chevy,
> but then a chevy motor usually requires a rebuild while you are stiill
> wearing the first water pump out on the volks, so changing the chev pump
> gets even easier when it's on the engine stand..  Alternators the same-
chev
> puts them on top so you can change them like socks.  Bosch lasts the life
of
> the car, so why plunk it on top like a hood ornament?  WHen is the last
time
> a chev or ford needed a clutch? They usually don't, they last the life of
> the car, which is a tiny fraction of the life of a volks, so yeah, you
gotta
> do the clutch on a volks.  that's like 3 hours by yourself.  It takes
longer
> than that to do so on my racecar, and that thing is practically naked
under
> the hood compared to any passenger car, and it's an aluminum T-10, not
that
> heavy, but heavier than the whole volks transaxle.
> -James
>
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