[Vwdiesel] re: *help* - '93 EV jumped timing

[Sandy Cameron]

At 12:38 PM 6/15/05 -0400, you wrote:

>- crank bolt was loose
>not good
>took about a full turn to seat it again

That sprocket is keyed to the crankshaft, has sheared, and you will have to
do something about it. It MUST come off
>
>- engine will only turn by hand about 1/4 turn
>further rotation either direction is being impeded by something
>I am guessing this is
> > valves hitting pistons;

Correct. You can disconect the pump and it will make no difference in
finding out what's wrong (is it driven off the back end of the camshaft??)

Best progress is to lift the camshaft (remove all the cap bolts so the
valves can all close at once) then you can turn the engine anywhere you
want. All valves closed=no piston collisions.

Seems you and Mikita have shared the same bad luck. Resolve your C-shaft
sprocket key problem first, probably a new sprocket, as I think the key is
molded as part of the sprocket.
Fix the end of the shaft if it's trashed. (tow to shop?)

Once you get that fixed right,
set the engine to TDC on cyl 1 (pulley end?)
set the camshaft in it's saddles with the lobes for # 1 both pointing up (V
for victory)

This is true for the 4 cyl engine, it's #1 is the pulley end. Check your
manual to find if that is true for the 5 cyl. Don't know if it is backward
With the crankshaft at TDC and the cyl#1 camshaft lobes describing a
perpindicular "V" , the cam is now roughly timed to the crankshaft. If the
cam shaft has the timing "slot " at the other end of the shaft like the4,
for a timing bar, apply it. Otherwise, find the method for precisely timing
the cam to the crank and apply it.
If you left the cam sprocket on the shaft, you may be able to time from
that, if it didn't slip.

You can leave the pump timing til last (driven by a separate belt from the
back end of the cam??)

Once you get the cam and crank at TDC, the timing marks for the pump will
make sense and you can set it up.

There are no mechanical risks to the pump getting out of time, but you may
have bent/broken valves if the engine failed in motion.

When the cam is out, lift each follower out with a magnet (don't mix them up
and be sure to put them back in the holes they came out of)

Inspect the valve stems for damage, try to press each one down with a stick
to be sure it's not bent and seats properly.

If there are bent valves, damaged followers, the head will have to be
shopped for rebuild.

Test for damaged valves:

With cam out of the head, crank engine over by hand. Lack of compression on
any cyl, or hissing and wheezing sounds indicate damaged valves.

There should be 5 distinct compression points in one revolution with all
valves closed..

If it fails the above, shop the head (but not at Mikita's shop[)

Lift the cam FIRST
Then deal with the crankshaft sprocket and key

Sandy