[Vwdiesel] Damper,brake line, now STRUT !

Val Christian val at swamps.roc.ny.us
Fri May 6 11:47:16 EDT 2005


Spring compressors adequate for this job are available from Harbor Freight
for under $20.

Also, taking the hub off the lower ball joint is not necessary, and 
creates additional work, iff you're replacing the strut assembly.  
Since your spring dish is rusted out, you need a new assembly, and
will have to take out two bolts (one of which may be eccentric for
camber adjustment).

Bob's description is an alternative approach which may save you realigning
the front end, when you simply need to replace the strut inserts,
spring, dustcap, or the bearing assembly on the top.

Finally, I'm paranoid.  I run a chain through the spring, after it's
compressed, incase something decides to slip or let go.  Also, I 
bought two sets of spring compressors, and I typically use three
compressors, instead of a pair, to provide more redundancy.  Working
on cars would not be as much fun without my hands or fingers.

The situation described appears to be very dangerous, and I would not
drive the vehicle at all, until repaired.  I've had a spring break
on a NY pothole impact, and unwind off the tower, causing an instant
tire blowout.  This situation is even more severe in that the spring
cup is critical to the support of the front of the car.


Val

> 
>  
> You will need spring compressor. Don't try it without. Very dangerous.
> Lower end of strut (ball joint) attaches to wheel bearing housing by means of pinch bolt. Remove bolt & lever lower control arm down. I use a big pole or pipe. 
> Separate tie rod end. This can be time consuming without the propper tool. Remove nut on bottom of tie rod end & squirt with penetrant. Heat VERY gently where tie rod end enters taper. Place hammer on one side of steering arm & tap on other side with other hammer. The idea being to shock the taper & squish the taper upward. You don't need to beat on it hard, just often, and it may take some time, but this always works. Next, remone big nut where strut attachec to tower & the whole strut comes out. Use spring compressor to disassemble & reassemble in oposite order. Get new strut bearing, rubber bumper, and dust cap. good luck. 
>  
> Bob in NY
>  
> ************
>  
> Well, turns out I have a broken (or nearly so) lower strut spring cup.  I
> don't know the proper term, but this is the lower roundish metal cup that
> hold the spring "up"......Mine's about 80% rusted out.....so the spring is
> pushing it apart, allowing the side of the "cup" to rub on the tire, ever so
> slightly.
> 
> Also, beacause everything is a wee bit more compressed on that side, the
> vibration dampener dooe-y was rubbing here and there.  I took the cut-off
> wheel to that sucker ! LOL!
> 
> Anyways, I stuck a muffler clamp just below the rotted/rusted cup, in case
> it completely lets go, but am wondering how hard it is to replace a strut
> myself?  Do I need any kind of spring compressors or special tools or is it
> straigh forward?
> 
> Mike in NB
> 
> Mike, Coreen & Corey Smith
> 699 Rte 616 Keswick Ridge
> NB
> Canada
> E6L 1T1
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