[Vwdiesel] Damper,brake line, now STRUT !

[slatersfb at aol.com]

If you will be owning & repairing VW's, it is advantageous to get a good quality spring compressor from Snap-On or MacTools. These will do the job with minimum risk of injury to you. Mine cost $100 and paid for itself the first time I used it. I usually get about 40k miles on front struts, so spring compressor gets much use. High quality tools make the job safer and easier. 
What Val says is true. My method is to save alignment cost, but since you will be repalacing the whole strut, you can ignore the ball joint. Best bet: get a complete strut from the bone yard.
 
Bob 
 
 
 
*********
 
Spring compressors adequate for this job are available from Harbor Freight
for under $20.

Also, taking the hub off the lower ball joint is not necessary, and 
creates additional work, iff you're replacing the strut assembly.  
Since your spring dish is rusted out, you need a new assembly, and
will have to take out two bolts (one of which may be eccentric for
camber adjustment).

Bob's description is an alternative approach which may save you realigning
the front end, when you simply need to replace the strut inserts,
spring, dustcap, or the bearing assembly on the top.

Finally, I'm paranoid.  I run a chain through the spring, after it's
compressed, incase something decides to slip or let go.  Also, I 
bought two sets of spring compressors, and I typically use three
compressors, instead of a pair, to provide more redundancy.  Working
on cars would not be as much fun without my hands or fingers.

The situation described appears to be very dangerous, and I would not
drive the vehicle at all, until repaired.  I've had a spring break
on a NY pothole impact, and unwind off the tower, causing an instant
tire blowout.  This situation is even more severe in that the spring
cup is critical to the support of the front of the car.


Val

> 
>  
> You will need spring compressor. Don't try it without. Very dangerous.
> Lower end of strut (ball joint) attaches to wheel bearing housing by means of 
pinch bolt. Remove bolt & lever lower control arm down. I use a big pole or 
pipe. 
> Separate tie rod end. This can be time consuming without the propper tool. 
Remove nut on bottom of tie rod end & squirt with penetrant. Heat VERY gently 
where tie rod end enters taper. Place hammer on one side of steering arm & tap 
on other side with other hammer. The idea being to shock the taper & squish the 
taper upward. You don't need to beat on it hard, just often, and it may take 
some time, but this always works. Next, remone big nut where strut attachec to 
tower & the whole strut comes out. Use spring compressor to disassemble & 
reassemble in oposite order. Get new strut bearing, rubber bumper, and dust cap. 
good luck. 
>  
> Bob in NY
>  
> ************
>  
> Well, turns out I have a broken (or nearly so) lower strut spring cup.  I
> don't know the proper term, but this is the lower roundish metal cup that
> hold the spring "up"......Mine's about 80% rusted out.....so the spring is
> pushing it apart, allowing the side of the "cup" to rub on the tire, ever so
> slightly.
> 
> Also, beacause everything is a wee bit more compressed on that side, the
> vibration dampener dooe-y was rubbing here and there.  I took the cut-off
> wheel to that sucker ! LOL!
> 
> Anyways, I stuck a muffler clamp just below the rotted/rusted cup, in case
> it completely lets go, but am wondering how hard it is to replace a strut
> myself?  Do I need any kind of spring compressors or special tools or is it
> straigh forward?
> 
> Mike in NB
> 
> Mike, Coreen & Corey Smith
> 699 Rte 616 Keswick Ridge
> NB
> Canada
> E6L 1T1