[Vwdiesel] Crank pulley removal

[Shawn Wright]

That is right - the ONLY time you should touch that big centre bolt is when changing 
the oil seal, or tearing further into the engine. The TBelt will come off fine once 
tensioner is released. Big V belt pulley on crank may be seized as Sandy mentioned, 
but just keep tapping it. I usually check carefully for leaks from the 3 front seals when 
doing the timing belt. Camshaft, crank, and int shaft all use the same size seal - 
47x10mm. If one is leaking, the rest are not far behind. Crank and int shaft are in 
seal carriers, so fairly easy to do once the pulleys are off. The cam just requires 
removing the end bearing cap from the cam, along with the pulley of course. I usually 
dab a bit of gasket sealer on the corners of the bearing cap to avoid leaks there. If no 
leaks, then don't worry about it, just swap the TBelt and you're set. Check the water 
pump for play & leaks while you're there.

On 18 May 2005 at 7:35, chris granju <carstuff at fiataccompli.com> wrote:

> Shawn,
> No worries on the belt for me 'cause I'm changing it, but I gather from the
> other list posts that I *don't* need to remove the bolt to get the pulley off
> just to change the belt...is that right? Thanks -c 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shawn Wright [mailto:swright at zuiko.sls.bc.ca] 
> Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:12 PM
> To: chris granju; vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Crank pulley removal
> 
> DON'T use the cam tool - you will only chip the end of the cam off. You
> should also not be stressing the timing belt like this. And forget trying to use
> the clutch, it will just slip.
> 
> I've done it two ways - 1st is to jam a large screwdriver into the timing
> hole on the bellhousing, jamming the flywheel. Tricky to do, but it can be
> done, careful not to gouge up the b/h too much. Some are stubborn, like my
> current Jetta, which would not break loose even with jamming the flywheel
> and an impact wrench. I will need to use option #2 on it, which is: drop the oil
> pan and block the crank against the block with some pieces of wood, then have at
> it. I usually block it in two places to spread the load. Beware the pan bolts at
> b/h end are tough to reach, need a 1/4" drive flex head or similar.
> 
> On 17 May 2005 at 21:37, chris granju <carstuff at fiataccompli.com> wrote:
> 
> > What's the best way to hold the crank in place to remove the pulley 
> > nut (car is
> > '91 vw jetta td)?  Should the 'tool' to hold the cam be enough, or, 
> > should I be just using an impact wrench & it won't matter? Thanks -c
> > 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
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> > Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> > 
> 
> Shawn Wright
> http://zuiko.sls.bc.ca/~swright
> '85 Jetta D
> '88 Westy 2.1L, soon to be 1.6TD 5 speed  (see progress at
> http://members.shaw.ca/vwdiesels)
> '82 Diesel Westy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

Shawn Wright
http://zuiko.sls.bc.ca/~swright
'85 Jetta D 
'88 Westy 2.1L, soon to be 1.6TD 5 speed
 (see progress at http://members.shaw.ca/vwdiesels)
'82 Diesel Westy