[Vwdiesel] Timing Belt Change: I know I goofed--how much?

[jeremy]

Congrat Dave, you got yours running again. 
I have similar situation as yours when I pulled my IP out of my 81 Rabbit last
month. I don't have any of the special tools mentioned in the Bentley manual so
after I got #1 at TDC I marked both the sprockets of camshaft and IP to some
fix points on the engine before I remove the timing belt. Few days later I
found out what I thought as the TDC mark is actually one of the two 1/4" x 1"
raised block on either side of actual 0 mark. The bad news is now I am not sure
the marks I've made were to match which raised block? At this point, I think I
have to abandon all my marks and start over again with the real TDC 0 mark. The
question is how do I line up the camshaft to TDC without the tool 2065? Or I
must have this special tool to do the job right? Secondly, when I line up the
hole on the IP sprocket to the bracket hole to allow the insertion of 5/8"
round bar(tool 2064) the small round dot on the IP sprocket does not line up
with the mark on the bracket at the top, is that ok?
Thirdly, is it possible to do the IP timing without the dial gage? 
Advise is greated appreciated.
Jeremy

--- David Cook <vwdieselbunny at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Thanks!  
> 
> After sending that last message, I really started
> thinking about how engines worked, and at one point
> when I was frustrated about (actually before typing
> it) I was thinking about how the engine shouldn't care
> as long as the bottom end was correct.
> 
> Anyway, I got the belt on, and I'm sure it is on
> correctly.  I timed the crank marks, the cams for #1
> were up, and I had a bright idea and manually turned
> the pump to watch fuel squirt out of the four ports,
> and stopped it when it squirted for #1.  
> 
> There are actually two holes that the pin could fit
> in, so it would be possible to time the pump 180 out
> if you put the pin in the wrong hole.  However, when I
> watched the fuel squirt out and put the pin in, I
> noticed that there was a little notch in the IP
> sprocket that lined up with a mark.  Sheesh, all that
> worrying for nothing!
> 
> Today I also changed a leaky oil pan gasket, checked
> the pump's timing, adjusted the valved (they were all
> pretty tight), replaced the air filter, a general tune
> up.
> 
> I was going to try to start it and let it run for just
> a few seconds (there isn't a radiator installed yet),
> but the only extra battery I had had been sitting out
> for over a year and was very weak, even after being on
> a charger for awhile and having a jump from the
> Cabriolet.  The starter would barely move.  I think
> part of the problem (with not taking a jump) is the
> battery cables are pretty dirty.
> 
> I'll get back on it soon enough.
> 
> David
> 
> --- David Brodbeck <gull at gull.us> wrote:
> 
> > David Cook wrote:
> > > But, as I'm typing this, I could be having a
> > > revelation...  Does it matter?  Won't it actually
> > work
> > > if I just make sure the pointer is at TDC, then
> > set up
> > > the camshaft so that the valves were closed?
> > 
> > Right, it doesn't matter.  Remember, the "part of
> > the cycle" is governed
> > by the camshaft!  The bottom end doesn't care.  The
> > #1 piston will
> > *always* be at TDC when the pointer on the flywheel
> > is aligned, and
> > that's what matters.
> > 
> > 
> > > Still, any way to know what the pump is doing, if
> > it
> > > is 180 out other than trying to start it later?
> > 
> > I think the locking pin will only go in when it's in
> > the proper
> > position.  If you don't have the pin you should
> > still be able to see the
> > holes for it.
> > 
> > VW gave you enough external marks to time this
> > engine without any issues.
> > 
> 
> 
> David Cook
> Red '86 Cabriolet Diesel Powered
> Red '90 g60 Corrado 
> Brown and White '78 Westy Campmobile "Bear"
> and others in various states of disrepair
> Pictures here: community.webshots.com/user/superdave5599
> 
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