[Vwdiesel] Timing Belt Change: I know I goofed--how much?

[jeremy]

Many thanks to Loren, Rod and Sandy for your detail explanations. I wasn't sure
the slot at the end of camshaft should be flat or at an slight angle. From what
I've gathered now it should be flat so a piece of flat bar or file can lay
flatly on the head and into the slot. I'll find something to use as the tool,
if not, my eyeballs better be good. Yesterday I found out my newly sealed IP is
still leaking from fast idle area. I just sent it out again for resealing. When
I get it I will follow the instructions to get her back alive again.
Thank you all.

--- LBaird119 at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 4/5/2006 7:52:08 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
> jwchou at yahoo.com writes:
> 
> > At this point, I think I
> > have to abandon all my marks and start over again with the real TDC 0 mark.
> 
> > The
> > question is how do I line up the camshaft to TDC without the tool 2065? Or
> I
> > must have this special tool to do the job right? Secondly, when I line up 
> > the
> > hole on the IP sprocket to the bracket hole to allow the insertion of 5/8"
> > round bar(tool 2064) the small round dot on the IP sprocket does not line
> up
> > with the mark on the bracket at the top, is that ok?
> > Thirdly, is it possible to do the IP timing without the dial gage? 
> > 
> 
>   Jeremy,
>   You can simply "eyeball" the cam in for TDC.  I have the plate and 
> only put it in last just to verify what I've already eyeballed in and I don't
> 
> 
> think I ever end up adjusting it.  :-)
> TDC on the crank, as you probably now know, is the 'o' mark between 
> those two bosses you found.
>   The pump gear should come out awfully close to the mark on the mount
> when you pin align it to the pump mount.  There are two holes that will line 
> up. They should set parallel to the ground and the hole only allows a 
> couple of mm of your pin to sit in it. (the hole in the mount).  If you use 
> the wrong hole (180 off) then the timing mark on the gear will be on the 
> bottom instead of the top.
>   Simplest way to assemble it all is to pop the cam gear loose, line it all 
> up, slip the belt on putting the cam gear in it last.  Then put the gear in 
> place, slide it on the cam and finger tighten the bolt to almost snug.  The 
> pump will most likely end up one tooth off due to the internal spring action.
> Rotate it about a half tooth against the direction it wants to go when 
> putting the belt on. 
>   Now tension the belt, recheck and then tighten the cam bolt lightly 
> then with a whack from your palm.  That'll tighten it quickly and not 
> change the timing.  Recheck all marks.  
>   If the timing was correct to start with then it'll be correct now, 
> providing 
> you got the belt tension correct (NOT TOO TIGHT and DO NOT TWIST the 
> belt!!!)  You about need a dial to set the pump properly unless you want 
> to try trial and error.  
>   By ear the engine should start well with the cold start knob out and falter
> 
> 
> a bit in the first few seconds with it in.  You should distinctly hear a 
> difference.  Warm you should just barely be able to hear a difference in 
> the engine with it out and in.
>      Loren
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> 


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