[Vwdiesel] Vwdiesel Digest, Vol 38, Issue 42

[MLightner]

>
>Message: 5
>Date: Sun, 24 Dec 2006 14:43:04 -0500
>From: Sandy Cameron <scameron at compmore.net>
>Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] changing the timing belt
>To: Terry Briggs <vbriggs at stny.rr.com>, vwdiesel at audifans.com
>Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.20061224194304.00dd994c at pop3.compmore.net>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>At 10:04 AM 24/12/2006 -0500, Sandy wrote:
>
>
>  
>
>The cam sprocket on the 1.6 diesel does not have a key. There is a slot on
>the camshaft for a woodruffe key, but not inside the sprocket. There for, NO
>KEY AT ALL in the cam shaft.
>
>It is a friction drive.
>  
>
Understood.

>There is a key for the inj. pump, and I've never had an intermediate shaft
>pulley off, so don't know about that.
>  
>
There's a key for the IS also.

>If you put a key in the camshaft,
>
I didn't

>
>The surface of the tapered end of the camshaft must be squeeky clean (I use
>brake cleaner)
>No trace of oil or grease allowed. Same for the tapered bore of the sprocket.
>
>If the inside of the (cast iron) sprocket bore is slick and shiny, you might
>want to de-glaze it a bit with fine emery cloth.
>  
>
Good tips, thanks - what do you think of locktite or similar to help 
keep them lined up?

>With the engine at TDC, and a parallel bar in the slot at the back end of
>the cam, slip the sprocket, belt, and tensioner in to place (you did lock
>the pump sprocket with a bar, and the sprocket mark notch up?)
>  
>
Well, locked the pump with the closest fitting socket and had the notch 
on the sprocket lined up with the cast-in line on the back t-belt cover .

>It goes together easily if you slip the sprocket on the shaft loosely, and
>the belt and tensioner, all at the same time (easy for me to say)
>
>After you get it together, you can replace the cam bolt, but do not tighten
>it yet, let the sprocket be a little  loose on the shaft.
>
>Check TDC, Pump lock, and parallel bar on the camshaft again, that all are
>where they should be (if not, fix it.) 
>Now snug up the tensioner a bit to remove any slack from the belt, rock the
>engine a tiny bit to seat the ribs in the notches (Buenos)
>
>Only after everything is properly seated, prepare to tighten the cam
>sprocket bolt.
>
>You must use some kind of reactive leverage on the sprocket to tighten the bolt.
>
>I made a gizmo about 2 feet long out of 2 angle irons bolted together at one
>end in the shape of a long "V", and 2 bolts thru the other ends that extend
>far enough to engage the holes in the sprocket. I use this apparatus to
>reverse torque the sprocket while wrenching the bolt, both for tightening
>and loosening
>
>This ensures no torque will be applied to the belt, or the slot in the other
>end of the cam, which , I 'm told, will snap off if levered against.
>
>Works for me.
>
>Sandy
>  
>
Thanks you've given me some good ideas for making the holding gizmo for 
the cam sprocket.  Is it definitely necessary to hold the camshaft at 
the slot as well?  If so, I think I could make something for that too.

Mike