[Vwdiesel] Vwdiesel Digest, Vol 38, Issue 42

[James Hansen]

> 
> That makes alot of sense, thanks.  Since it seems that it's not that 
> unusual for the cam-sprocket to shift on the shaft, would it be 
> acceptable to use some kind of locking compound on the union?  
> Super-glue comes to mind, along with locktite.

No.  Unnecessary.
It's not that usual really. They need to be assembled clean, dry, free 
from anything that could be construed as a lubricant.  wedgemated parts 
generally don't move.
It is common practice to overtighten the cam retaining bolt.  I have 
always given torqued the bolt, given the pulley hub a whack to seat it, 
then retorqued.  It asks for 30ft#.  I usually go that plus some, around 
50.  I generally go 30, then hand tighten it until it feels like the 
juice is just starting to squeeze out.

> 
> Tightening and/or loosening the cam sounds like a possibly risky venture 
> unless one has the proper tools to do it with. I used blocks of wood and 
> wedges to block the most blockable cam lobes, for instance, when I was 
> putting the timing belt on,  and I'm not sure this would be safe for 
> breaking loose or tightening things on the head. I'm  thinking I'll wait 
> till I can use my air wrench (no compressor right now) before I try 
> loosening the cam sprocket.

With the belt on, use a plain old flat wrench, and whack it with your 
hand, or a deadblow hammer, WITH NO LOCKS IN PLACE.  It will usually 
come loose this way. Get back to TDC, then, through the little hole you 
see on the backside of the metal inner cover, bean the pulley a good one 
with a flat nose punch.  It will pop off if the bolt is just loose a few 
threads, and not fly off.  NEVER EVER use the cam lock plate to do this. 
  You break the cam.  A piece of shaft with two sticks welded on will go 
through the cam holes and act to lock the pulley.

> 
> One other question I had on the timing belt setup concerns some 
> instruction I readin a Chilton manual - it says to strike the T-belt 
> witth a mallet right between the cam sprocet and IP sprocket - that just 
> doesn't sound right and I/m not going to do it, but what do you think 
> about doing that?

Sounds pretty Chiltony.
Fuggedabout it.
Time better spend would be getting the chilton's book to ignite.
;-)

>>
> It's the keyway in the pulley that's just a wee bit sloppy - but I also 
> suspect mishandling or outright sloppiness occurred in the supposed 
> rebuild that was allegedly done to this thing before I bought it.  I'm 
> wondering if the wrong pulley got installed, or the wrong intermediate 
> shaft, or someone modified one or the other. 

Or forgot to tighten the bolt, ran it, it vibrated around a tad, 
loosened up the pulley, etc.

As long as there is no radial slop, I'd just put on a wee drop of low 
strength loctite.  You can make the shaft bigger by dimpling it with a 
centerpunch, but it doesn't take much, so be easy with that, and do it 
evenly around the circumference of the shaft.

  As far as whether the vac
> and oil pump are being properly driven, how hard should the shaft be to 
> turn? I can turn it fairly easily either way with just a thumb and index 
> finger .
> 
If it was working before, about like it is I would say.
:-)  Warm, it all turns pretty easy.
-james