[Vwdiesel] New lister with pump and valve questions (semi long)

[James Hansen]

The engine is a 79 or 80, I think...it carries a Pathfinder # 2,524; and has
a # in the back end of the block just below the head of 682 05 625.  The
injector pump #'s end in 107L.  It is goverened to 4,000rpm.

Is this an industrial engine?  How can I tell?  What are the differences?
-_______
Welcome Bob!
Serial numbers.  I would have to do some checking, I forget where I have
it....



What is the timing setting?  I have followed the "hillbilly tuning" threads
some, but my pump has no cold start lever, can I tune without it?
___
For sure?  It may have a thermostatically controlled one on the back of the
timing pump next to the engine.
With the poor clearance you describe for valve setting, are you certain
there is none. If it starts like crap when it's cold out, then yeah, maybe
you don't have one :-)


I can't
test acceleration :-), and it's tough to test mileage, but can I tune by
smoke, speed and sound?  The engine seems to be down on power a bit and
smokes some at high load.  The Pump controls the engine speed up to 2,750,
and at that point the engine becomes "prop" controlled to 4,000.  I have new
injectors and timing belt.
_____

The pump controls the speed through the operating rpm to a predetermined
maximium as set by your pump shop in the way it is set up on the bench. You
most likely have what is called a constant speed pump.. in that if you set
the throttle at one spot, the rpm's will stay constant and not deviate from
that within a few rpm load dependant.  A car pump is different- if the load
drops off, the engine speeds up for  given throttle setting. Usually a clue
that the motor was originally set up as an industrial engine... but there
are not a lot of differences between an industrial engine and an auto
engine.  Mostly controls and pump type.

I need to adjust the valves, but I can't use the normal tool as there is
little clearance above the motor.  Is there some other way to depress the
followers?  If the cam has to come out, can I do it with the gear on?  Does
it need to come all the way out? Do I need a new oil seal?
____
Then make clearance if you can.
Another way to depress the buckets? not really.
cam gear can stay on? yes, but why.  You have to replace the belt and reset
belt tension, the cam gear HAS to be loose and the cam locked to do this.
You would only have to loosen the cam enough to get the shims out, which is
almost off anyway.  They tend to hold themselves in with surface tension of
oil. Compressed air and some windsheild washer tubing on the blow gun can be
used to pop them loose when the buckets are depresssed.
If your valves are way out, then that can explain some of the smoke as well.

As and aside, my 1980 bentley list the timing as 0.83 for 77-79 cars, not
the 0.88 as in some of the archives.
___________________
1.5 vs 1.6 timing.
Call you local Bosch shop with your pump number  to get a timing value.  The
have the big fancy book.


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