[Vwdiesel] '84 Diesel Rabbit Motor Oil 15W-40, 10W-40, 5W-40 . . .

[Terry Briggs]

One thing I would advise though, is if you do switch to a 100% 
synthetic oil is to at LEAST put a fresh valve cover gasket on the 
engine, might even want to consider a pan gasket. Synth oil is great, 
but any leaks you have, even if minor, will get worse with synth, it 
flows that much better.
On Jun 3, 2006, at 12:34 PM, Libbybapa at wmconnect.com wrote:

> In a message dated 6/3/06 12:18:32 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
> pmdolan at sasktel.net writes:
>
>
>> HOWEVER, your oil consumption is very high.  This is not cureable by
>> changing the oil.
>
> If it is a stuck ring, using synthetic can free it up.  It is also 
> possible
> to change to an oil with a somewhat higher flash temp and drastically 
> reduce
> oil consumption.
>
>> I would still bet strongly on the guide seals.   They can be changed 
>> very
>> easily with the engine in the car.  You need to make an "air hold" 
>> tool to
>> keep the valve in place while you compress the spring (or if you are 
>> REALLY
>> brave, let the valve press on the piston - a practice that I do NOT 
>> recommend).
>> You need the valve spring compression tools, seal removal pliers,
>> installation drift, lash adjusting tools, cam alingment and timing 
>> tools.  If you don't
>> have, find a friend or shop with the tools, lots of experience and 
>> patience
>> and use them.
>>
>
> What is the downside to placing the given piston at TDC and using it 
> to keep
> the valves from falling into the cylinder?  How is pressing against 
> the piston
> top of significant difference from pressing against air pressure?
>
> Would it be possible to simply clamp the timing belt to the three 
> sprockets,
> lift out the cam with sprocket attached and reassemble to the original 
> timing,
> negating the need for the cam and pump timing tools and greatly 
> simplifying
> the procedure?
>
> Andrew
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Third Wheel engineering
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