[Vwdiesel] Fwd: Hydraulic Lifter Question

[David Hardy]

Thanks for the advice. I guess I didn't mention, I did time it at .039 inches
(1mm) to start with, and marked it. It didn't run right, so I tried adjusting
it on the fly. Still doesn't quite run right, regardless of timing, so I think
I have another issue...
Today I replaced the fuel supply line with clear tubing and noticed I have a
fuel flow issue - not bubbles exaxtly, but fuel, then no fuel - what looks like
an obstruction somewhere, causing too much vacuum. Also has no power at all. So
I'm going to solve that and go from there.

-David

Quoting James Hansen <jhsg at sasktel.net>:

>
>>
>> I am having a little trouble timing it right - I left the IP loose,
>> and tried to get it so it would start to miss/stumble when I pushed
>> the cold start in, but it would immediately die when I puched it in,
>> even when pretty far advanced (at least as far as I could push it
>> w/out tweaking the injector lines), and even when hot. Do I just
>> need to advance it more, or is my IP on the way out? No smoke at
>> all, really.
>
>
> Since you haven't timed the engine, how would you draw that conclusion?
> Setting it so it doesn't run when you push the cold start in is
> DEFINITELY not how to time it.
> It is not a distributor on a gasser, it has to be set with a degree
> of precision, not wheeled around until it idles.
>
> Go back to the basics. SET the timing to 1.00mm
> Dunno how?
> you will need the manual, some tools, and some learning time.
> Pump timing is set with a dial indicator to measure pump plunger
> movement at TDC, which should be at or near 1.00 mm... and that's at
> or near in the machinist's sense of precision.
>
> Set engine to tdc as indicated by flywheel mark.
> Loosen t-belt sprocket on camshaft, insert cam lock plate, retighten
> the cam sprocket. Now it's for sure on TDC as well as the piston.
> remove lock.
> remove timing plug from center of fuel distributor.
> install dial indicator holder, insert dial indicator, set so it is
> preloaded a bit... so it contacts the plunger.
>
> roll the engine back, note the dial position when it stops moving,
> roll it back to tdc as indicated by the flywheel pointer, note the
> dial position.  the difference is what you are after.
>
> To change timing, loosen the bolts you are familiar with, move the
> pump.  THe injector lines have to be loose. If you preload them, then
> run it like that, they will stress fracture eventually.
>
> If you can't adjust it far enough, you are off one cog on the
> injection pump sprocket.
>
> To retest timing, always roll the motor back a quarter turn or so
> then come back to tdc.  If you go past tdc, go back a quarter turn
> and repeat etc.
>
> Keep doing this until you get it right.  There is no replacement for
> doing this one simple task EXACTLY CORRECT.  then you know.  then if
> the pump doesn't work, you can ask a question that starts off with "I
> just set my injection pump to 1.00mm, and it still runs poorly.  Is
> it on the way out?"  :-)
> -James
>