[Vwdiesel] starting problem(things I forgot to mention)

[LBaird119 at aol.com]

> I don't know if this is a coincidence, but the cold start doesn't work, 
even though >we did the timing according to the manual (cold start in etc.)

 How do you mean it doesn't work?  It doesn't actually do anything or it 
seems 
like it doesn't do anything?


>   
> > It is a 85 turbo diesel which the book says doesn't have the timing 
> advance, I >only have one indent in the cold start.


  It just doesn't have a fast idle.  The knob advance still advances the 
timing.
With a cold engine you should be able to hear less rattle and a bit of 
sputter 
within the first 10 to 20 seconds of a cold start, when you push in the knob. 

It should smooth out when you pull it.  You can push/pull a few times and 
hear it. 
  When warm the difference is faint but you still can hear it when you push/
pull the knob, if the timing is right.  It gets a tad less rattly when it's 
in.


>   
> > Thanks for any help
> > Paul
> > British Columbia Canada
> > P.S.
> > I had origionally thought that maybe the pump wasn't giving enough 
> pressure for >the injectors until it warmed up , because when I loosen the unions on 
> the >injectors one by one,  fuel comes out.
> >
> 
  Most of your description sounds like low compression.  However timing 
could do it as well.  Just to reiterate;  your timing should be 1.00mm 1.03mm
is fine or almost preferred it seems.  Don't just be sure the cold 
start/timing 
advance knob is pushed in when setting it, be SURE the lever behind the 
pump is seated agains the sheet metal stop.  Adjust the cable if it doesn't. 
Likewise be sure it pulls fully when the knob is pulled out.
  Good battery cables (6V car size or better) can make a huge difference 
in starting times.  Sometimes they sound like they're cranking over fast 
enough but a few more rpm can make a BIG difference! 
  There's a couple tractors on the orchard where an Optima makes at 
least a -20F difference in starting without starting fluid!  Cranking speed 
counts.
  Air leaking into the pump can have similar symptoms.  Parking nose down 
hill is a good test for that.  There are MANY places air can seep into the 
fuel lines and not even let any fuel leak out!
  Glow plugs will generally glow full cycle if you let them.  The light is 
all that times.  Just because they stay on doesn't mean there's a problem 
ulesss they're still on 5 minutes later.  ;-)  You also don't REALLY know if 
they're working properly unless you pull them or the injectors and have an 
actual look!  They don't often but CAN use full or nearly full current and 
not 
glow worth crap.
  It's also possible that compression could be low from having marginal 
compression compounded by a wrong head gasket having been put in 
with that head replacement.  
  You haven't checked the injectors it sounded like so assuming they're 
not the problem often leads to a final result of them actually being the 
problem!  ;-)

  I accidentally deleted your second post, thinking it was a hiccup post.  I 
realized it was actually different right after the fatal click.  :-o  Sorry 
'bout that.
     Loren