[Vwdiesel] Misc '79 Rabbit questions

[LBaird119 at aol.com]

  Generally the oil pan gaskets weren't a problem and I often 
would reuse the old one.  Running on 3 cylinders could have 
been injectors, valve adjustment or head gasket in about that 
order.  If the head gasket's bad they usually don't run.  You 
can decipher leaks on it if you look CLOSELY at the steel 
rings around the cylinders and look for dark areas that indicate 
leaks.  They're usually not blatantly obvious.

  Haven't ever seen a int. shaft break a thrust such that I 
can't even think of what the thrust looks like on one and 
I've seen many!  I'd put in a good, used shaft.  SHOULD 
be able to use one from any 1.6 or even some of the early 
gassers.  Shouldn't be hard to find one though.  DEFINITELY 
do the int. shaft bearings though!!!!!!!!!!  They flake with age 
and you'll have oil pressure problems at the least.

  Valve collisions are fairly common to find and like Nick 
said, as long as the valves aren't bent, you'll be fine.  If 
any ridge is on the piston from valves hitting them, just 
file smooth and that's it.  No cracks between the valves 
almost qualifies as rare!  :-)

  Difference in head gaskets is something like .006" 
(without looking).  Best thing is to measure the piston 
projection on each piston, figure  about what the upper 
average is (they're rarely even) and if you don't have a 
Bentley, post it here and someone will look up which 
gasket you need.  You never know if a PO put in the 
correct one or one that's even close!  You definitely 
don't want one that's too thin!  You end up fighting too 
high of pumping losses.

  Tranny fluid needs to be GL-4.  Dig up a FF five speed 
and put in there while you're at it.  :-)  As a friend put it, 
it eliminates that feeling that you're "ready for take-off" 
while driving down the highway!

  From what I recall, you just put on the vented rotors 
and matching pads (thinner).  Never found a problem 
with the solid ones though.  Kinda like putting disks 
on the back, nice but does it REALLY make a difference?

  Doing all this and only CONTEMPLATING doing the 
injectors???  If they're over 75 to 125K old you'll NOTICE 
the difference.  Most are.  Shop around, I just came across 
injectors for $33 something.  :-)  My WHOLESALE supplier 
wants $62 my cost!!!  A friend got me one for about $35 from 
a former supplier of mine.  :-)
  With all you're doing there's only one issue.  Pistons.  You 
really should check your bore and if it's worn beyond spec, 
you're putting a lot of money into a worn engine and .0024" 
is the amount of wear that's "allowed."  Pistons are no longer 
available for a 1.5  :-(  There are a few sets floating around out 
there but generally not from suppliers.  I like the 1.5 better 
myself but for that reason a 1.6 to rebuild should at least be 
considered.
  If you disassemble the head you'll probably find worn guides, 
exhaust valve stems, seats and valve seat faces.  New stem 
seals are a good idea too.  I usually find I spend as much on 
the head as the rest of the engine and I do about all of the 
work on both myself.
  If the input shaft bushing isn't worn on the pump I'm not sure 
it's worth rebuilding it at this time.  You can always pull it and 
do it later if necessary.  Is it a yellow dot pump?  (068-130-107 A, 
I think that's right, the last 4 is what counts anyway)  The 1.5s 
REALLY run nice with them but don't forget they time at 1.15mm 
and not .88mm or 1.0mm.
     Loren