[Vwdiesel] Vwdiesel Digest, Vol 37, Issue 40

[MLightner]

It's dawned on me that some posters are posting to both the list and the 
poster whom they're replying to  and others are posting only to the list 
is there a preferred way to do this? I suppose the also could be due to 
the behavior of individual email programs...anyway, in reply to Loren Baird:

>Message: 3
>Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2006 22:25:14 EST
>From: LBaird119 at aol.com
>Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] 1985 1.6TD Jetta recently acquired
>To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
>Message-ID: <cf3.32f5a1b.329e579a at aol.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
>In a message dated 11/28/2006 5:52:37 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
>mikel at buncombe.main.nc.us writes:
>
>  
>
>>1).  I found a half container of Valvoline 10W-30 oil in the trunk, it's 
>>a non-diesel rated  oil;
>>if this is what the PO was running in the engine for its first 2,000  
>>miles, is there any thing that could or should be done to correct any 
>>problems that may have caused? ( I changed the filter and put in some 
>>Shell Rotella 15W-40)
>>    
>>
>
>  Sounds like you did it already.  :-)  If the wrong oil was used 
>all along then it'd contribute to accelerated cylinder, ring and 
>bearing wear due to the carbon not being properly controlled. 
>If it was actually overhauled (not a FULL overhaul at that price) 
>then all should be fine for a good while with the bore the only 
>factor left in whatever state it was in.
>
>  
>
>>2).  Since I don't know whether the head was ever re-torqued, would it 
>>be wise to do so before I start putting any miles on it?  Could I 
>>possibly cause any problems by doing so?
>>    
>>
>
>   Good thought but it'd be best to press the issue and find out how 
>many retorques have been done for SURE.  (One after warm up, one 
>after 600 miles.)  If it had Raceware/ARP or 11mm bolt then retorque 
>away!  However it highly more than likely has the 12mm, original type 
>stretch bolts and you really don't want to put an extra 90 degrees on it.
>THAT'S what the retorque would be.
>  
>
I shall definitely  try to pick the PO's brains some more - his memory 
may have recovered some since I last saw him.  As for the rebuilder, he 
was a one man shop whose location is not presently known.

>  
>
>>3).  Judging from the reading I've been doing, the timing belt seems to 
>>be properly tensioned, and
>>doesn't seem to be showing any overt signs of impending failure, is it 
>>possible that the belt could
>>have 'plenty of life left in it', assuming that it was replaced during 
>>the rebuild?  I guess there's no way to tell for sure, but thought I'd 
>>ask in case there actually is a way.
>>    
>>
>
>  As said if it's shiny and looks worn, it'd be wise to replace it.  If 
>it still has a roughish look to the flat side then you know it was 
>replaced at overhaul.  Might see what you can find out there too!
>A lot of hassle to replace if it's new, good insurance if you haven't 
>a clue.  Too tight and you usually hear a whine from the belt.  Cold 
>it should be just so that you almost wonder if it's just a tiny bit loose.
>  
>
I guess I'll replace it then, it doesn't really have any even semi-rough 
looking areas on it....

>  
>
>>If you got this far, thanks for listening, and thanks in advance for any 
>>insights / advice any of you may have to offer.
>>
>>    
>>
>
>  Injectors were probably his original problem.  If they weren't 
>replaced then you're engine will be much happier for you with 
>rebuilds.  At 190K they could still be originals and if so you'll 
>really like what rebuilt ones will do!
>     Loren
>
>  
>
I'll be looking into that soon, thanks  for your reply,

Mike