[Vwdiesel] thermostat blues

[David Cook]

James-

Good info.  I just moved it to my SAVE! folder for
easy future reference.

I have had good luck with another method for removing
potentially stuck bolts, but you have to do it before
starting.

If you are working on a bolt that is potentially
stuck,  tap it with a hammer quickly and sharply 200
times, at a rate of about 100/minute.  I usually spray
PB Blaster every 50 or so whacks.

I usually have very good luck with that method, but
like I said it is better to do it before you break the
bolt off.

David

--- James Hansen <jhsg at sasktel.net> wrote:

> If the bolt has been in there forever, then it's
> welded itself in 
> through trading electrons with the aluminum.  Okay,
> not trading 
> electrons, it's more of a tax on the aluminum, but
> you get the picture, 
> the aluminum oxidizes, the oxide takes up space, the
> bolt is more or 
> less stuck because there is no room for the threads
> to move.
> 
> Here's what I do, arranged in order of potential for
> destruction....
> 
> In this list, you may note the absence of drilling
> holes in the bolt and 
> using an extractor.  In my opinion, it is less
> destructive to use a 
> welder than to try to use a horribly mis-named tool
> called an "easy-out" 
>    There is nothing easy about an easy out...
> It would go last in my list, but since I have never
> had need to go past 
> the last procedure, they stay in my tool cabinet
> where they belong. 
> Nice shiny pieces of crap to sell to someone else at
> my estate sale.
> Don't agree? Try getting a broken easy out out of a
> blind hole in an 
> expensive part without an EDM.  BTDT, and won't do
> it again. fooey.
> 
> So anyway...
> 
> Line up a good flat punch on the bolt and give it a
> couple stout whacks 
> with a heavy hammer.  Not destructive, just not some
> little love tap 
> that barely moves dust. You should have no trouble
> seeing the punch mark 
> on the bolt.  THEN grab it with the brand new
> special shiny brand name 
> "Vice Grips" that you keep stashed away in your tool
> chest just for such 
> an occasion.  The jaws should be clean and sharp to
> do this.  Old worn 
> jaws covered in weld boogers will not grab enough to
> be effective.
> 
> If this fails, out comes the torch.  Propane is good
> enough.  Home 
> handyman type you would use for plumbing- but the
> hot ones that make a 
> bunch of noise when they burn and have a peizo
> igniter on them, not the 
> old style units that are comparatively cool.   Heat
> the end of the bolt, 
> get it as hot as possible- you are trying to get the
> bolt to expand as 
> much as possible, and squoosh the aluminum oxide in
> the thread spaces to 
> make room for the threads to move.  Try not to burn
> the car down doing this.
> When it's hot, smoking, and about to melt, stop. 
> give it another coupla 
> whacks with the afforementioned punch and hammer.
> the shock is important 
> to the loosening process.
> Now, LET IT COOL.  Completely.
> Go for coffee, or support your favorite beverage
> company.
> When it's cool, try the vice grips again. You could
> put some oily stuff 
> miracle loosener, but by and large, they are mostly
> ineffective on stuff 
> that is oxidixed into place by dissimilar metals.
> 
> it should come out.
> 
> IF NOT, then out comes the mig welder.
> Weld a nut to the broken stub, even it is flush with
> the surface, or 
> even a little below surface.  Plug weld the nut on
> completely, the weld 
> will not stick to the aluminum, but will stick to
> the broken bolt... but 
> you have to actually weld, not just squeeze geese
> onto it. Get someone 
> competent to do it if you are unsure. The bolt and
> nut need to be as one.
> This accomplishes two things.  It heats up the bolt
> better than you did 
> with the torch, and provides a place to use a wrench
> on.
> Give the nut a whack when hot, and let cool again.
> It will now come out 
> and you will wonder why it was so tough.  Welding on
> a nut has NEVER 
> failed me in everything from bolts in aluminum, to
> D8 cats, to heavy 
> trucks, and steam engines, in steel, cast iron,
> aluminum, stainless, pot 
> metal, brass, and others.
> 
> On reassembly, use antiseize, and you will never
> have to fight with it 
> again.
> 
> Hope this helps :-)
> 
> -James
> 
> Pam & Doug Boes wrote:
> > I think my thermostat was stuck closed. I pulled
> off the lower hose and only
> > a dribble of coolant came out. I tried to remove
> the thermostat housing but
> > snapped off one of the screws. Plenty of coolant
> came out of the radiator.
> > Does anyone know any tricks for removing screw
> stubs from the water pump
> > housing w/o removing the housing from the engine
> of the Caddy? I've doused
> > it with PB Blaster and plan to grab the stub with
> vice grips and try tapping
> > it loose. 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> > 
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 


David Cook
Red '86 Cabriolet Diesel Powered
Red '90 g60 Corrado 
Brown and White '78 Westy Campmobile "Bear"
and others in various states of disrepair
Pictures here: community.webshots.com/user/superdave5599

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