[Vwdiesel] flushing the block

[Val Christian]

I've done something similar to what Sandy describes, and it works.
I used more water, and less "Jungle Jake" which is essentially 
Simple Green.  I pretreated with an industrial degreaser (purple
stuff...I think it was a metasylicate) which got 90-95% of the 
oil out in the first flush.  Then I did something like the 
Cameron Style Continuous Flush.

I did run a fuel filter in the small line to the overflow bottle,
and replaced it a couple of times until it was clear.

Also, a shopvac exhaust is good for blowing out the engine, and drying
things first.  

Do it on a hot summer day, and run the AC on the car to help with the 
heat load.

Cleaning the overflow bottle is a bigger hassle.  I never could get 
it really "white".


> 
> At 06:52 PM 18/12/2007 -0500, you wrote:
> >Any tips or tricks on flushing the block , radiator and heater core of 
> >accumulated oil crud due to a blown head gasket. I'm doing the head 
> >gasket { swapping heads with an '84} and hoses in the next few weeks 
> >and need a good way to clean out the oil.
> >Terry
> >
> 
> 
> I had to do dyalasis on my son's 91NA.
> 
> It's gasket was not blown from a combustion chamber, but it constantly
> leaked oil, as revealed when I changed the gasket, due to a malformation of
> the rubber insert in the gasket that seals the oil riser to the head.
> 
> The inside of the cooling system was a mess! to say the least. An oil cooled
> engine?
> 
> First, I changed the head gasket.
> 
> Then...................
> 
> I pondered this for a few days, and settled on this trick which worked well,
> cleaned the heater core, radiator, engine jacket, and the inside of the
> hoses, without removing any of them from the car, and with the engine
> running so it would stay hot, and the water pump would circulate everything
> with reasonable velocity.
> 
> It was also necessary to get the system up to temperature so I could flush
> the rad without removing the thermostat.
> 
> Equipment used:
> 
> -Small submersible sump pump, (the kind with a 3/4" garden hose fitting on
> its exit)
> -4 gal bucket full of hot water mixed with one bottle of "Simple Green", a
> water-soluable surfactant degreaser. Usually available at larger auto supply
> houses.
> (Canadian Tire Corp here in Canada)
> 
> -Extra buckets of Hot water as required,
> 
>  "Enema until clear", as the nurses say. :^0
> 
> My engine came clean on the third bucket.
> 
> I disconnected the heater hose between the outlet of the head and the heater
> input, connected the dyalasis apparatus, pump output to heater input, outlet
> from head to drain in to the bucket.  Take the top off the reservoir (I
> actually had my reservoir in the house for laundering, NO I didn't put it in
> the dishwasher :)
> I cant remember if I plugged the reservoir hoses, I think likely, as they
> would squirt when the sump pump is running
> 
> TIPS:
> 
> a/ use heat resistant hose, rubber with cord re-inforcement if available.
> The plastic I used went limp with the heat and was difficult to manage,
> folding and kinking.
> 
> b/ Find a container and a skimming vessel to skim the oil off the top of the
> water in the bucket as it comes out. I got almost a quart.
> 
> I started with a dry engine, I recommend draining anything that's in the
> cooling system first, it will not be re-useable, and will just
> re-contaminate the insides.
> 
> Set the pump in the bucket and turn it on. You may/will  have to add more
> hot water to the bucket as it fills the engine and rad, etc.
> When you have a good flow returning from the engine to the bucket, start the
> engine and let it run at high idle. You can turn on the head lights and rear
> window heater to give it something to do, it will heat faster that way.
> Turn OFF the cabin heater fan so it doesn't suck away the heat. 
> 
> Make sure all your hoses, etc are secure, use clamps at the joints, tie off
> runs so they dont kink, flop or fly away.
> If anything comes apart, you will have a hell of a mess to clean up. And you
> are working with scalding water temperatures. I did this in my heated garage
> because it was december. I did not have a spill. Remember the Exxon Valdeze?
> 
> All standard cautions and disclaimers apply.
> 
> The oil will come out in gobs for a while and float to the top of the hot
> water in the pail.
> Carefully Scoop it out into a container. The return flow will clear up after
> a while, but wait until the thermostat opens, when a lot more oil will come
> out. I think there was more in the rad than in the engine. It's OK to shut
> off the pump (have a means near by to do this, in case TSHTF) and engine
> while you do the other chores like dipping and changing the water.
> 
> When you think you have got most of the oil flushed out, time to change the
> water.
>                                                          HOT ! !
> I just changed the water in the pail, as the water remaining in the engine
> was grey, but not oily. Ran it again for a while until no more oil came out,
> then flushed it again with clean water to get rid of the grey (soot).
> 
> After this is all over, disconnect the lower rad hose, and one of the other
> hoses from the water pump to drain the system. Blow some low pressure air
> thru the heater core to blow the water out of it. It can not drain by gravity.
> 
> When all the water is gone, replace all hoses and clamps, and fill with new,
> long life antifreeze, run the engine until the T-stat opens, keep topping up
> until it no longer goes away.
> 
> The antifreeze in junior's car is still pale orange, with NO oil spots a
> month later.
> 
> Be sensible about disposing of the oil and water. If you skim the oil
> carefully, you can probably dispose of the water in any drain or sewer, or
> on a long gravel driveway.
> 
> The simple green is labeled biodegradable, and the small amount of suspended
> soot will do no one any harm.
> 
> Sandy
> 
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