[Vwdiesel] 81 Rabbit - wheel bearings

[Sandy Cameron]

At 12:33 PM 19/12/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>shop just told me 'klunk' is wheel bearings in both rear wheels
>pass side is much worse, but apparently driver's side is iffy too
>they did not want to re-pack b/c they might be shot, and then 'big  
>money'

Before you get carried away, 

Jack  one wheel off the ground

Do not remove it

Grab it with both hands, top and bottom, and rock it in and out, verticaly
and horizontally

If the bearing is loose, it will clunk. If is not growling at speed (above
40mph) it is OK, just loose.

Pry off the dust cap with screwdrivers, or grab with big husky pliers and
rock it out (Press fit)

If there is lots of grease, just pull out the cotter pin, remove the tin
"nut lock", and tighten the nut a little more than finger tight. I use an
adjustable wrench to tighten, then loosen a couple of times while spining
the wheel to "bed" the bearing.


When the nut is at the right tightness, the wheel will still spin  freely,
but there will be no loosness when trying to "rock" it.

This is very much a "feely" adjustment. 

When you think you have it right (not TOO tight, but not loose), Find a
position for the nut locker on the nut (without moving the nut)  where the
space between the tabs lines up with the cottter pin hole.
Rotate it every hex face, (60*) until you find the position that works,
lines up perfectly..

You would be surprised (or perhaps not) at the number of  "mechanics" that
do not realize that you get a different set of tab positions with every 60*,
and put it on wrong, with resultant "Loose bearing syndrome"
Probably what happened to yours.

Install a new cotter pin. Bad form to re-use the old one.

If you found the grease scanty, or dried up, you will want to pull the brake
drum off (remove the wheel first) and check the seal (inside the inner part
of the drum) to see if it is leaking, evidenced by grease on the backing
plate and shoes, If not, just scoop some grease in to the 2 bearings with a
popscicle stick and put it back together.

Once again, if the bearings do not growl, I would not replace them at this
time (winter),
Just adjust (tighten) them

You can opt to just replace the roller parts of the bearing and the seal,
or, and this is more trouble, the outer races in the drum as well, including
the seal.

Getting the races out of the drum requires a bearing press and mandrels to
do properly, and unless they have been under water for a year  or so, and
rusted and pitted,, almost never need replacing

In the many volks I have serviced rear brakes and bearings, I have only once
replaced the actuall bearings, and even then, left it til spring to do.

Sandy