[Vwdiesel] More Dasher?

[B & R Decker]

I don't think ARP makes twelve mm bolts for VW diesels. Race-Ware does. With
a crack by the bolt hole the block is history. If I was 500 miles from home
I might try but I personally would throw the block out. Cracking around the
head bolt holes was one of the problems of the early VW diesels. You said
you had two other diesel engines I would recommend you put one in the
Dasher. Every body I know that rebuilds VW diesels resurfaces the heads VW
said don't but unless you want to buy a new head or blow more head gaskets
you better tru that baby up.
Brian Decker

-----Original Message-----
From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com] On
Behalf Of William J Toensing
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 9:18 PM
To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
Subject: [Vwdiesel] More Dasher?

Finally got the head off today & what to my wandering eyes did appear was a
crack in the block  where the right front head bolt goes in. I did not find
any cracks where the other 11 mm headbolts screw into the block.  What I am
thinking of doing is to get 12 mm studs of proper length instead of  12 mm
head bolts, tap the block for 12 mm studs, & JB weld the stud into the right
front block where it is cracked.  In following the discussion on VW
headbolts there was discussion of using ARC racing headbolts or studs
instead of the stock VW stretch bolts. Is there an online source for the ARC
headbolts & studs? 

I used an 11 mm tap to clean the threads when I replaced the headbolts
before. I wonder if I made the holes too large when I used the 11 mm tap
since I read some comment in the headbolt discussion that the VW factory
headbolts were some odd ball size slightly smaller than 11 mm?  Are the
factory 12 mm  threads & bolts a slightly different size than a standard 12
mm thread? In changing the threads from 11 mm to 12 mm, do the holes have to
be drilled out or are the 11 mm holes large enough to accept the 12 mm tap.
Do you think JB welding the right front crack will work or am I wasting my
time with that block?  I had a local machine shop check to seer if the head
was warped & they said no, but recommended it be surfaced. I recall reading
somewhere recommendations that VW diesel heads not be surfaced. The head has
surface cracks about a fingernail's width between the valve seats but I
recall reading that practically all VW diesel heads have these cracks
between the valve seats & 
 these small cracks up to a fingernail's width 
do not render the heads useless.

Again, where would I buy the 12 mm ARC racing studs? Or would you recommend
I go a different route? Do you know the proper length? Do you have a
particular ARC part number I should order? Also, do I need 12 mm hardened
washers or will any washers do? I want to do the job right this time & not
have to do it over again. I am not an experienced engine rebuilder & the
only engine I have rebuilt was on a Model A Ford, but the job was
successful.
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