[Vwdiesel] More Dasher?

[Stephen Kraus]

 Couldn't you try creating a metal sleeve to insert into the hole if there
is a crack and seal it in with a welder?
I don't see how you couldn't solve this problem unless the block is warped
to hell and back

On 6/19/07, James Hansen <jhsg at sasktel.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> William J Toensing wrote:
> > Finally got the head off today & what to my wandering eyes did appear
> > was a crack in the block  where the right front head bolt goes in. I
> > did not find any cracks where the other 11 mm headbolts screw into
> > the block.  What I am thinking of doing is to get 12 mm studs of
> > proper length instead of  12 mm head bolts, tap the block for 12 mm
> > studs, & JB weld the stud into the right front block where it is
> > cracked.  In following the discussion on VW headbolts there was
> > discussion of using ARC racing headbolts or studs instead of the
> > stock VW stretch bolts. Is there an online source for the ARC
> > headbolts & studs?
>
>   ARP 251-4701 for a Ford Cosworth fits all 12mm tdi through 1.6td.
> Unsure about the 11mm, never done one.
> Raceware has the 11mm studs however.
>
> >
> > I used an 11 mm tap to clean the threads when I replaced the
> > headbolts before. I wonder if I made the holes too large when I used
> > the 11 mm tap since I read some comment in the headbolt discussion
> > that the VW factory headbolts were some odd ball size slightly
> > smaller than 11 mm?
>
> no. You most likely missed some crud or oil at the bottom of the hole.
> It's a clean, vacuum, brake cleaner, vacuum, blow gun kind of cleaning
> job.  No oddball sizes, just a straightforward metric threadform in a
> blind hole.
> This is another advantage of using studs in blind holes.  you never
> crank the studs in with torque, you insert them with finger pressure
> only.  If they don't go in, there is an issue to deal with before you go
> further.
>
>   Are the factory 12 mm  threads & bolts a
> > slightly different size than a standard 12 mm thread? In changing the
> > threads from 11 mm to 12 mm, do the holes have to be drilled out or
> > are the 11 mm holes large enough to accept the 12 mm tap.
>
> Drill, then tap, but it will be hard to do well.  The crack will want to
> move open as you cut.
>
>   Do you
> > think JB welding the right front crack will work or am I wasting my
> > time with that block?
>
> I would be skeptical it would work, and unless I had the only available
> block on the planet, would recommend finding another block..
>
>
>   I had a local machine shop check to seer if
> > the head was warped & they said no, but recommended it be surfaced.
>
> Sure.  But that's how they make money.
> Ask the ice cream man if you need ice cream, you get more or less the
> same answer.  At least they were truthful about warpage, which is a
> bonus, but they will always want to "take a skim cut" to remove
> invisible gasket wear, which is pure BS.  It pretty much either needs
> it, or not.
>
> I
> > recall reading somewhere recommendations that VW diesel heads not be
> > surfaced.
>
> Yep, sort of- there's more to it than just resurfacing.  Unless you are
> willing to change valve stem length to compensate for the reduced head
> length. It's a job left to good head shops that do this stuff a lot.
> It's easy to get a head that you can't get thin enough shims for the
> valves.
>
>   The head has surface cracks about a fingernail's width
> > between the valve seats but I recall reading that practically all VW
> > diesel heads have these cracks between the valve seats & these small
> > cracks up to a fingernail's width do not render the heads useless.
>
> Normal with age.  Peen shut if you want to, if not, leave them, they are
> mostly harmless.
>
> >
> > Again, where would I buy the 12 mm ARC racing studs? Or would you
> > recommend I go a different route? Do you know the proper length? Do
> > you have a particular ARC part number I should order? Also, do I need
> > 12 mm hardened washers or will any washers do?
>
> They come with the studs usually.
>
> I want to do the job
> > right this time & not have to do it over again.
>
> That's what we all say.
> Took the stock car to the track for a big invitational this weekend,
> forgot to take oil pressure along.  This will be teardown number three.
> And i used to think I know what I'm doing too...
>
> -james
>
> I am not an
> > experienced engine rebuilder & the only engine I have rebuilt was on
> > a Model A Ford, but the job was successful.
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> >
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-- 
Stephen T. Kraus Jr.
Home: (423)227-6480 (No Minutes Right Now)
UB3RATL4Sf00 at gmail.com;