[Vwdiesel] r.e. About the pump kit

[MWoodland at Dentsply.com]

Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2007 07:51:05 -0500
From: MLightner <mikel at buncombe.main.nc.us>
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection pump questions
To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
Message-ID: <45F2A9B9.2060507 at buncombe.main.nc.us>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

>The IP on my Jetta 1.6TD has a leak that comes and goes, I think it's
the o-ring between the pump body and the distributor head; when its
below freezing it will leak from a couple to several drops a second,
and it will stop once the engine warms up.

A. Clean the whole area and verify the location with a mechanics mirror.
Verify that its not the cold start advance, which requires pump removal.

>After seeing an article and pictures on doing the o-ring replacement on
a TDI IP, I'm wondering if the procedure would work for the older IPs.
In brief,  the  injection lines are removed and the pump head is backed
out from the body until the o-ring is visible in its slot, then a new
o-ring is slid on over the distributor block to replace the old one.

A. Make sure you read and follow the procedure in this thread:
http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5311
or you could irreparably damage the pump.

1) In the article it says something about using a viton o-ring, and
viton having a better "memory", as far as returning to it's original
size after being stretched.  It also mentions that  viton  would be the
best choice as far as its resistance to degradation caused by various
fuels.  I can't seem to find anywhere that carries the specific o-ring ,
or any site that  has much info about any o-rings I can get from them.
Actually, the only place I've found that offers a kit is

       http://www.dieselvw.com/

Is anyone familiar with them, or know of a good source on-line, for
either the o-ring, or just good info on o-ring selection?
A. Follow the thread above for a source. As far as I know, you have to buy
the complete Bosch 'kit'. About $15.

2)  I had an old NA IP laying around and removed the distributor-block
completely, so am now a little familiar with the difficulties of
reassembly  - I think I got all the parts back in it the right places
on /snip/
Anyway, I'm wondering if turning the thing over by hand would give an
indication as to whether things are working properly inside,

A. It would verify that its not jammed.
or would the pump need to be powered somehow to verify that it's working

A. It either turns over, or it doesn't.

- after
reassembly, I  filled it with fuel, hooked up 12V to the solenoid, and
tried turning the pulley, but had no sign of fuel trying to spit,//

A. If it doesn't turn over, with no load on the pump, then something is
seized, rusted up, or jammed. The procedure in the link above is done with
the pump still mounted in the car, and does not require 'testing' the pump.
I did it and it works. Note: you will have to remove the pump if the leak
is from the advance / cold start unit.


3)  I have another NA pump that I'm thinking may work as a temp
replacement for the leaking one, wondering if it should be a bolt-on
replacement, provided it is still in running condition - Any tips would
be appreciated in how to check it, it's been sitting around for quite a
while, but has a mix of fuel and ATF in it and feels about like the
leaking IP when you turn it by hand.
A. It should work, but the timing would have to be set up. Being a NA pump,
it will cause the car to smoke big time until the boost is up, or, if tuned
to not smoke off boost, will be starved for fuel when on-boost.
The procedure described in the link does not disturb the timing. Stick with
the TD pump
Mark in PA


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