[Vwdiesel] timing tension
James Hansen
jhsg at sasktel.net
Wed Oct 31 19:58:25 PDT 2007
All belts are not the same Sandy.
Timing is too exact a thing for there to be enough resolution with the
coarseness of the cogs. Even with V8's and big gnarly double roller
timing chains, if you start to get fussy and dial in the camshafts, they
are always a couple degrees off between chains. (I've seen 6 degrees
manufacturer error in camshafts alone, and this is on fancy race things
that are supposed to be higher tolerance. Yeah.
Being a purist, I check these things, and trust me, the valve timing,
and the pump timing are always different between belts. Not enough to
not run, not enough to crash a valve, but enough to be out of optimum as
established for the engine.
-james
Sandy Cameron wrote:
> At 01:45 PM 31/10/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>> So by the sounds of it (I'm assuming were're talking about diesel), if
> all the pulleys are held in place somehow so they don't move, you should be
> able to work the belt off, and the new one on, without having to re time ?
>>
>
> Of course !
>
> I dont even remove the valve cover. or slack the cam bolt.
>
> The purists try to suggest that the timing should be re-checked, but I've
> never seen the logic in that. The new belt has the same number of teeth as
> the old one.
> If no one frigged witth the timing,it should be exactly the same.
>
> I DO make a mark on the plate behind the cam sprocket to register its
> position, in case it should shift, (before removing the old belt) but none
> have yet, and I've done several this way.
>
> Also, I've found I can get the new belt on to the crank sprocket without
> removing the water pump pulley, , just the crank pulley (4 allen bolts)
> I can swing the lower belt guard far enough to change the belt, without
> having to remove it completely.
>
> Takes about 15 minutes in the driveway , working thru the wheel well, then
> drive away.
>
> Sandy
>
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