[Vwdiesel] 91 ECO IP bracket bolts loose

Val Christian val at mongo.mongobird.com
Wed Jul 9 19:21:31 PDT 2008


Good compression numbers.  Visually inspect the cylinder bore when
you have the head off.  #4 is high, but there are lots of reasons,
and if the engine was generally running smooth before, you're OK.

Guess you got the compression gauge running, eh?

> 
> Well here is the skinny, on the way to work the other morning the jetta
> started up great as usual and ran fine but I noticed that it was taking more
> boost to keep it at speed. Usually at 55mph boost will be around 4psi well
> this time it was around 9psi. Then when I got close to work and had to stop
> at a light, when I went to take off it didn’t sound right at all and had
> zero power but seemed fine at higher rpms. Then when I made it about four
> more miles at a stop sign it died, but fired right up. Got to work, popped
> the hood and it sounded nasty trying to idle and no power. First I thought
> it was the fuel filter since I have been running some WVO and 1010 oil
> through it, installed a new fuel filter but no luck. 
> 
>  
> 
> Had it towed home and when I got home and tore into it I found the timing
> belt loose, took note that when I leaned on the IP it moved toward the
> engine about a ¼ inch or so and then back. Then noticed the whole bracket it
> was bolted to was moving. Then as I removed the plastic timing cover the
> cover was loose and a bolt fell out. Noticed an impression of that bolt
> melted into the cover on the back side of the cover, like the bolt got
> wedged in-between the cover and the belt.  There are two bolts missing. The
> ones that are in the middle of the bracket in the middle area of the timing
> belt.  I’m lucky it didn’t get caught in the belt and shred it and trash my
> head.
> 
>  
> 
> So now it is time to pull the IP and everything else to get to all the
> bracket bolts, take them out, clean them up and put lock tight on them and
> put them back in.  I’m also going to replace my head. Not sure if all
> remember but I have been running with zero oil pressure, (reading taken from
> the head port with a known good mechanical oil pressure gage) anyway it has
> been running like that since I rebuilt it and that was 3 years ago and 40k
> miles ago. I have oil flow at the head but just no pressure.  I also just
> did a compression test before I take the head off and all the cylinders hit
> 500psi except #4 it was at 525psi.
> 
>  
> 
> So now to swap heads and see what that does for my oil pressure.  Long story
> short, previous owner broke timing belt, had head replaced, since head
> replacement there was an oil pressure issue with the buzzer going off and
> light blinking. All the records in the glove box showed every oil change at
> 5k miles since new and I got the car at 154k miles and the head was replaced
> at 110k miles when the previous owners had it. So I’m thinking there might
> be a casting problem with this head. Oil pressure issue didn’t show until
> they had it replaced. I don’t have much to loose either way. The rest of the
> engine had all new bearings replaced and new oil pump so last resort it
> change out the head.
> 
>  
> 
> Is the compression an issue as in too high?
> 
>  
> 
> Nick
> 
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