[Vwdiesel] The sad story continues..... Brake problems

[mark shepherd]

Why should a master cylinder hurt only one brake?
If it's operating on it's own then this has been delt with on this site and 
is a matter of adjustment of the master actuating rod....
Mark(Who replaces nothing that isn't broke)UK


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Craig Osborn" <cosborn at epix.net>
To: <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 4:32 AM
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] The sad story continues..... Brake problems


>I have decided to replace the rear hoses, wheel cylinder, and master
> cylinder.  The parts (with the exception of the hoses) are not that
> expensive and while I have it apart I might as well do it all.
> I found out that the pickup truck rear hoses are only available from VW 
> and
> they got me for $83.00 !!
> Question - When I went online to order the master cylinder, I found one 
> that
> said for ATE servo and one that said for BENDIX servo.  My local parts 
> store
> also had multiple selections for the diesel PU truck.  How do I tell which
> one I need?
>
> Craig
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Tony and Lillie [mailto:tonyandlillie1 at earthlink.net]
>> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 11:09 AM
>> To: Craig Osborn
>> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] The sad story continues..... Brake problems
>>
>> Craig, I'd start with replacing the flexible brake hoses that go to the
>> rear
>> brakes, both sides. We see this a LOT at our shop on older cars. In fact,
>> it
>> happened to me about six months ago on one of my 4000Q's also. What
>> happens
>> is, the line sooks fine on the outside. But, it starts colapsing on the
>> inside. It doesn't allow the fluid to release back to the MC. To check
>> this,
>> when the brake is hot and sticking (it doesn't have to be very severe)
>> loosen the bleeder screw. If fluid comes out, the hoses are the most
>> likely
>> culprit. We've seen MC's do this also, but lines do it about 10 to 1 over
>> MC's.
>>
>> Let us know when you get it resolved, or if you need more help.
>>
>> Tony Hoffman
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Craig Osborn" <cosborn at epix.net>
>> To: <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 12:25 AM
>> Subject: [Vwdiesel] The sad story continues..... Brake problems
>>
>>
>> > You may all remember my story last week about the bad drum brake job 
>> > and
>> > the
>> > "cooked" wheel bearings.. IF NOT the story goes like this,
>> >
>> > A few days ago, I heard a thumping noise coming from the rear passenger
>> > side
>> > wheel of my '81 pickup.  Never having messed around with drum brakes, I
>> > went
>> > to a franchise muffler/brake shop to have the noise investigated.  I 
>> > was
>> > informed that my brake shoe had broken into pieces.  I authorized a
>> repair
>> > that included brake shoe replacement on both sides, and a new wheel
>> > cylinder
>> > on the passenger side (because the bleeder screw was broken off).  I
>> > additionally requested a brake system flush (power bleed) since I have
>> > only
>> > owned this vehicle for around 10,000 miles of it's total 200,000 miles
>> and
>> > I
>> > was not sure how old was the brake fluid.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > I paid the bill and proceeded to drive the 50 mile commute to work the
>> > next
>> > day and immediately noticed a drag that felt like the brakes were on 
>> > all
>> > of
>> > the time.  I also felt a vibration and heard a faint whining noise.
>> Upon
>> > arriving at work, I felt the wheel and noticed that the wheel was very
>> hot
>> > on the driver's side rear, but not on the passenger side rear.  It
>> didn't
>> > seem so bad as to prohibit driving, so I elected to drive the 50 miles
>> > home.
>> > When I arrived at home, I noticed smoke coming from the "hot" wheel,
>> that
>> > I
>> > assumed was bearing grease burning off or brake shoes smoking.  I
>> > immediately took the car back to the shop.  They put it on the lift and
>> > announced that the bearing was "fried", but that there was nothing 
>> > wrong
>> > with the brake job that they had done.  He said that the mechanic may
>> have
>> > over-tightened the wheel bearing and caused the problem so he agreed to
>> > replace the outer bearing.  He said the inner bearing/race was OK. He
>> also
>> > said he "backed off" the nut so as to loosen the pressure on both back
>> > wheels so the problem wouldn't reoccur.  I drove about two miles home
>> and
>> > felt the same drag and noticed the wheel smoking again.  I took it back
>> to
>> > the shop and they said they will look at it tomorrow.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > NEW INFO STARTS HERE ...
>> >
>> > After a bit of arguing with the shop manager he agreed to replace all
>> the
>> > bearings.  When I called him later that day to see how the job was
>> > progressing, he said that he discovered a problem with the brake
>> hardware
>> > and that he replaced all of the springs with yet another new set.  He
>> said
>> > that this was the source of my brake overheating problems.  He also 
>> > said
>> > that after disassembling the drum and bearings that he cleaned and
>> > inspected
>> > all of the bearings and found that only the outer ones were damaged. 
>> > He
>> > said that there would be no benefit to replacing all of the races and
>> > bearings.  I agreed to this.  When I picked up the truck he said that
>> the
>> > wheel was spinning freely and that he test drove it for about 5 miles
>> and
>> > everything was fine.  He did not charge me for anything.
>> >
>> > When I drove it home, I immediately noticed a bearing whine coming from
>> > the
>> > rear.  The brakes did seem to be fixed.  I thought - That's it I'm done
>> > with
>> > this shop! - I will renew the bearings myself.  Today, I did renew the
>> > inner
>> > and outer bearings/races/oil seal on both rear wheels.  I took it for a
>> > test
>> > drive and it was very quiet.  I thought that everything was great until
>> I
>> > went about 20 miles then I noticed a vibration coming from the rear
>> > wheels.
>> > I pulled over and found the driver's side rear wheel was smoking and
>> very
>> > hot to the touch.  I let it cool a while and drove home very slowly.
>> >
>> > I need some help to try to figure out my next move!
>> >
>> > What would make one drum brake self adjust to the point of engagement
>> > while
>> > the other doesn't?  Should I try adjusting (loosening) the hand brake
>> > cable
>> > as it seems to engage after one click upwards?  Could the fact that
>> there
>> > is
>> > a new wheel cylinder on the trouble free side and an old one on the 
>> > side
>> > that is giving me trouble cause shoe engagement?  Does the self
>> adjusting
>> > wedge hardware ever go "bad"?  What happens if I disconnect the self
>> > adjusting spring?
>> >
>> > Any other suggestions welcome.
>> >
>> > Craig
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
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>>
>
>
>
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