[Vwdiesel] Crank Yank Sprocket Tool at MetalNerd RE: Oil leak

[Will Taygan]

Looks like MetalNerd has mass-produced an attachment like Kurt and Rudy
recommend!  Not cheap, though:

http://www.metalnerd.com/images/products/cat05/mnyankp.jpg

http://www.metalnerd.com/cat05.htm

Now, can I justify buying another tool? ;)

(Struts just gave out on the ecodiesel (flat - not just bouncy)
 so I might need to fix that first.. haha..)

Will in Alaska.

On Sat, 2009-12-19 at 19:28 -0600, James Hansen wrote:
> I have used an inch air impact gun, step down to the socket with adapters,
> flick the trigger and it's off before you can break anything. I can jack up
> on the tranny side to get the belt side lower, pointed down to make it
> easier to work.
> -james
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com]
> > On Behalf Of Will Taygan
> > Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 12:02 PM
> > To: vwdiesel
> > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Oil leak
> > 
> > Thanks Kurt, I like the tips.
> > 
> > I'm getting ready to replace all the seals on my freshly rebuilt 1.6NA
> > in the '82 Westy.  Seems like the rebuild shop used "Top Line" seals.
> > Not so good?  poorly installed?  overpressured crankcase?  dunno.
> > Putting in a Sabo OEM (Brazil) set $42 from AutohausAZ.
> > 
> > Question is, how do you like to lock the main crank to remove the bolt?
> > Last time I dropped the oil pan and stuck a piece of wood between the
> > crank and block.  And my goodness, the oil pan is a tight fit at the
> > tranny on the Vanagons.
> > 
> > Will in Alaska.
> > 
> > On Fri, 2009-12-18 at 12:52 -0500, Kurt Nolte wrote:
> > > Joe,
> > 
> > > If you can handle a timing belt, the front crank seal is just a few
> > > short steps past that. You'll need to add a new seal, seal carrier
> > > gasket, and a new crankshaft bolt to your list of parts (should
> > probably
> > > replace the TB, if it's been oil-fouled). If you have access to a
> > vice
> > > then the job is /super easy/.
> > >
> > > Remove everything as though you were going to do a timing belt job.
> > > Remove the sprocket, discard stretch-bolt securing it.
> > > Remove the handful of small bolts holding the seal carrier to the
> > > engine, and pull the seal carrier. Make sure all the gasketing is
> > > cleaned away and you have bare block and bare carrier.
> > >
> > > To remove and install the seal from the carrier, I use a bench vice
> > and
> > > two sockets. One is ~the same diameter as the seal, and the other is
> > big
> > > enough for the seal to fit inside. I have big sockets laying around,
> > but
> > > you could use a bit of pipe or something for either of these bits.
> > >
> > > Wrap or tape the edge of your bigger pipe, set it against the sealing
> > > surface of the carrier, then fit your smaller socket on the other
> > side
> > > to press against the seal. Slowly close the vice, out comes the seal.
> > >
> > > Wet the new seal with oil, get it settled against the carrier, and
> > > gently push it in with the same method until it's well seated.
> > >
> > > New gasket, reinstall, new crank bolt, and finish your timing belt
> > job.
> > >
> > > Of course, you probably knew all of that, now that I spot your "more
> > > than I'm willing to do" comment.
> > >
> > > -Kurt
> > >
> > > Joe wrote:
> > > > Actually, my oil leak appears to be on the "front" of the engine,
> > as it's
> > > > starting to throw oil off the timing belt.  (I run it coverless)
> > And the
> > > > drip marks on the driveway are primarily on that side.  I usually
> > have to
> > > > feed it a quart every 500 miles or so.  Haven't been able to locate
> > it
> > > > precisely yet.  I'm afraid it's the crankcase seal, which is more
> > than I can
> > > > do... Or rather, more than I am willing to do.
> > > >
> > > > Joe
> > -snip-
> > 
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> 
>