[Vwdiesel] Quantum Problems 'head removal' repost as messages now getting through...

[mark shepherd]

Message '1'
There was no need to take the inlet manifold off.
The bolts that hold turbo to exhaust manifold look like some special tool 
required. It is simply a 12 point standard socket.[As opposed to 6 sided] 
13mm I think. Remove inlet to turbo rubber air hose. Also valvecover to 
airfilter  hose. Nothing else required, other than oil supply to turbo, 
which is attached to back of head. Leave turbo attached to engine 
block/exhaust downpipe.
I skimmed head by hand complete with manifolds as they maintained whatever 
shape the head had become, and avoided flexing of  face of head when 
reattaching after skimming [if at all neccessary]

Message '2'
Sorry, I'm not paying attention What are you trying to do?
 Cure over heating wasn't it?
What were you doing with the head bolts?
Did you slacken them off? If so, how much torque needed to loosen them, or 
did you not check? That was a crucial piece of info to determing if the 
problem is just a clamping issue....
If reusing stretch bolts don't go blindly for the 2 x 90 deg 'stretch', 
instead only turn as far as reading on torque meter stabilises, [ 95 to 
100lb ft on a reused bolt] 115lbft on first use or there abouts.

However, firstly compare length of reused bolt with a new one. If more than 
1mm longer, then I'd be inclined to renew.
The manifold to turbo bolts [should be 4 of them] can be very tight. They 
take extreme heat. Never broke one before. Use copper coat on reuse. Also 
smear a little on turbo to manifold interface. There is no gasket normally.

Forget racing studs for the time being, just get to know your car when 
running correctly, without over heating before adding much extra power, to 
warrant their use... That way  you can return to a known standard, if 
changing stuff makes things not run correctly.
Overtorquing the head can bury gasket into the head. Fine until next gasket 
leak or head removal for other purposes, then head will need skimming to remove ruts IMO...

Mark

A few days ago we actually had -10 deg C in the car; and that brake pump powered up fine. Not had those temperatures for  a few years, especially before Feb!