[Vwdiesel] Quantum problems"head removal"

[James Hansen]

Erik Lane wrote:
> Unless, of course, the book calls for there to be lube on the bolts
> and tells you the numbers to use with lubed bolts, which it sounds
> like this one did. 

Yes, ARP makes their own special assembly lube that you can use for 
engine asembly, and on their fasteners to improve torque wrench 
accuracy.  There is no dry torque spec for them, that's too variable. 
In their tech literature, they claim that they developed the assembly 
lube specifically to deal with varying friction of various oils, whether 
they have shear additives, etc.. so that on the real high performance 
stuff, your clamping force is exact on applications you can't measure 
bolt stretch.
I've been using ARP assembly lube for some time, I would highly 
recommend it.  Excellent product for assembly- On building real close 
tolerance stock car motors(.002 main bearing gap), the crank spins 
freely, unlike regular assembly lube that has a discernable amount of 
drag when first assembled and spun.

All of the Bentleys that I have looked at called
> for lubed head bolts. (Though that's not more than 5-6 manuals that
> I've dealt with - I've been pretty content to stick with early to mid
> eighties cars.)
> 
> As far as the question about using torque wrenches I've never seen it
> said that they could be damaged if you use them to loosen stuff, or in
> other words tighten a left-hand thread. In fact the clickers are made
> to be able to be reversed and the beam torque wrenches have scales on
> *both* sides of the bar to read in both directions. In the clickers if
> you look at how they're made I don't see a single reason why it
> matters which direction they're used.

Ditto.
I've been told the same as you Erik, but that has to be pure BS. 
Realistically, the calibration is only good in one direction, and stands 
a good chance of being off when going left... more on an older wrench 
that has wear. Other than that, I don't see where the damage comes in 
either. Accuracy issues, yes, but if damage can occur, I'm thinking the 
wrong wrench was purchased.

> 
> The block should be identical. Yes, you would have to change mounts
> and oil pan, possibly also oil pump, but that would be good to have
> new, anyway. Also change most of the accessory brackets if it came
> with any of those. I've used a dasher block in both a vanagon and a
> jetta with no issues. They're all pretty much interchangeable. (With
> exceptions for turbos.)
> 
> On Sun, Jan 11, 2009 at 7:33 AM, Terry Briggs <vbriggs at stny.rr.com> wrote:
>> Need to remember that when using lube on bolts with a torque rating,
>> you have to increase the setting to compensate for the lube. I can't
>> recall what percent the increase is but that info can be found either
>> in an engineers reference book or on line.


See arp tech literature.  they get into it there ad nauseum.
There is no defined percent however, it varies with the slipperiness of 
the lube used, and you decrease the torque number when lubed since the 
fastener thread has less drag to overcome.
-james


>> On Jan 11, 2009, at 1:24 AM, William J Toensing wrote:
>>
>>> Reply to Mark Shepherd.Thank you for your reply. Will not attempt to
>>> remove exhaust manifold thanks to your reply. Problem is overheating
>>> due to leaking head gasket. A professional mechanic whom I trust
>>> diagnosed the head gasket as leaking. When I checked the torque, I did
>>> not back off or loosen the head bolts before checking the torque. I
>>> have the type of torque wrench that clicks when you reach the torque
>>> setting you want. Some told me that if you use such a torque wrench in
>>> reverse you could damage it. Is this true? I may have somewhere a
>>> cheaper type torque wrench where the bend in the wrench bar can
>>> measure the reverse torque necessary to loosen the head bolts.
>>> I have a new set of "American Racing Products" 12 mm studs, unused. It
>>> calls for a torque of 80 foot pounds using "ARP Molly assembly Lube"
>>> or "ARP thread sealer" or torque nuts to 120 ft pounds using 30 weight
>>> motor oil. The studs I have are American Racing Products  part
>>> 251-4701 for Ford Coxworth/Sierra/Escort Head Stud kit per prior
>>> recommendations from this discussion group for the (pre TDI VW diesel.
>>> Was just able to buy a used long block 1.6 diesel that came out of a
>>> '82 VW pickup or "Caddy". Claimed it ran good & strong before removed.
>>> My understanding  from prior discussions that this engine is
>>> interchangeable with my '81 Dasher diesel provided I use the Dasher's
>>> engine mounts & oil pan. Correct?
>>>
>>> William J Toensing, Nevada City, CA
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Vwdiesel mailing list
>>> Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
>>> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
>>>
>>>
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