[Vwdiesel] pulling pistons for bearings and rings

[Rudy]

Just pull the Engine and Transmission out the top as a unit and work on it
on the Floor.  It'll only take a few more hours to do that and much easier
to work on than it will be to do all that in frame.

If Engine is out you can also change the Intermediate Shaft Bearings and
also won't have to fight with the two or three Oil Pan Bolts that are
between the Engine and the Transmission.  I've done a few in frame, now I
always pull the whole mess and put it on the floor, much easier.

Rudy 

-----Original Message-----
From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com] On
Behalf Of Erik Lane
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 12:06 PM
To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] pulling pistons for bearings and rings

Yeah, very easy to pull the pistons without pulling the crank out. In fact
I'm pretty sure it's standard to pull the pistons first and then the crank.
At least that's always the way I've done it because I don't want too many
pieces loose and able to fall out at once. I don't want to score the
cylinder walls or any other machined surface.

As far as the honing grit, I would put old plastic bread bags or shopping
bags over the crank to help deflect them. Just kind of stuffed in there,
nothing fancy. At the very worst it couldn't be any worse than leaving it
off.

I've never tried to hone it in the car, and if it were me I'd be super
careful about getting anything down on the crank. And then go crazy cleaning
it after. Though if it were me I'd be very reluctant to hone it with the
crank still down there. It is a lot of extra work to get the crank out if
you're not wanting to pull the engine out, but then you can't get to the
rear main seal, and possibly not the front, either. I would definitely want
to replace those on a minor rebuild like this, especially that it was worn
and using oil. If you just pull the tranny you can get to the crank and do
just a little more of a rebuild on the engine, which is what I would do.

Good luck!
Erik

On Sun, May 17, 2009 at 9:29 AM, mikitka <mikitka at embarqmail.com> wrote:

> You can pull the pistons out from the top no problem.  I did to 
> re-ring my 1.6l TD 91 jetta. I did it in the car as well.  There are 
> several that have done it and even rehoned it while in the car. You 
> just have to clean up the cylinders really well when you are done. 
> Some have used Total Seal rings, I just went back with standard rings from
Hastings.
>
> I would replace the bearings as well. Not hard and since you are that 
> far may as well.
>
> Nic
>
>
>
> The old pickup 1.6NA is torn apart on the stand.  It was burning a ton 
> of oil, smoking and starting to run away.  I was expecting to do a 
> full rebuild.
>
> (Engine was running when pulled)
>
> The valves in the head are very loose, and the exhaust ones are quite 
> worn.
>
> As for the block, there's just a little carbon at the ridge - I can 
> catch my fingernail on it - but not much else.  I can still see 
> hatching in the cylinder.
>
> The block has an official VW reman sticker on it, makes me wonder what 
> size bearings and pistons I've got.
>
> I pulled #3 main, and the green plastigauge says it's within specs for 
> NEW bearings.  I pulled the #1 rod bearing and the green plastigauge 
> says it too is within specs for NEW bearings!
>
> I suppose I should pull all the caps and plastigauge them, but...
>
> At least I'd like to throw on new rings while I've got it apart.
>
> According to the book I've got to pull the crank to get the pistons out.
> (and according to my mechanic buddy, I should pull it before honing 
> the cylinder wall anyway)
>
> Or is there a way to pull the pistons out the top and run a quick hone 
> in the cylinder?
>
> This is my first try getting into the engine guts.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Will.
>
>
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