[Vwdiesel] '01 Golf binding brakes

[Tad]

There are two types of special tool available.. one is like a big screw
compressor with a device built in to also rotate the face of the piston.
The other is just a little metal 'cube' which helps you turn the piston but
does nothing to compress the sucker.

I tried it with the cube (which is what Autozone gave me) and failed
miserably.  I guess I wasn't clever enough, or didn't have the correct
variety of c-clamp.  Of course if I knew how the stupid thing actually
worked that would have helped.  Brian makes it sound easy.

If I were you I'd spring for the tool... I got one at Harbor Freight for 20
bucks on sale and works on most cars.

The problem you may encounter (like I did) is that when you get down to
metal, the piston is extended too far to properly install the tool.

This all may be moot since it sounds like you might have extended the piston
so far as to get it stuck.  Hopefully it's just the slide though.

On Mon, May 18, 2009 at 8:14 AM, Rolf Pechukas <rbp at 4u2bu.org> wrote:

> OK, still working thru the 'issues' PO left me with on this Golf
> left rear brake metal on metal - maybe sticking e-brake line wore down
> the pad?
> been running that way for a week, building a shopping cart at
> autohausaz - getting a bunch of parts including pads/rotors
> didn't think I'd burn thru metal backing in a week
> but this AM stepped on brakes @ red light and got the 'seized rotor'
> grab
> loosened it by reversing and scraped my way down the rd, but need to
> do these asap
> I can get pads and rotors locally, but looks like I need a special
> tool to compress caliper
> anyone do these without that?
> they loan it out at AutoZone, but it a drive to get there and I don't
> want to totally seize that left rear getting there
> what does it mean when you get that wheel grab anyway? about one more
> pedal push from a meltdown? that's what it feels like
> thanks for any suggestions,
> Rolf in MA
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